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Hi Saneagle (and anyone else), This morning, with maximum speed set to 25kph and P1 set to 163 (as calculated from the gear teeth), motor assistance started tapering off at 15.5mph with watts dropping to around 10 at 16 - 16.5mph. Mostly using level 1 or 2, occasionally 3 if it's particularly...

After taking a break, The KT controller is installed and running nicely. Thanks everyone for your help.

I finally got back to it yesterday, after a long break. Up and running today! :) Yesterday, I removed the JYT controller from the Yose battery base, removed the circuit board and compound and soldered a 12 AWG silicone lead on to the battery socket with an XT60 connector at the other end. This...

PS Apologies for resurrecting an old thread, which I tripped over this morning. Thanks saneagle. I would like to verify my reduction ratio so I can get somewhere near the right P1 value and then adjust in small increments rather than have to hunt over a wide range. But from what you say that...

Very interesting and useful post. Although the pragmatic approach to setting P1 seems to work well, I have been puzzling over the need to adjust P1 away from the calculated value by trial and error. So, the system has two ways of calculating speed: For the display speed The display uses the...

I've just found out from Yose that the 95RX on a 28" wheel is wound for 190-200 rpm, i.e. optimised for torque rather than speed. Hence 58Nm. Yose also said that the reduction ration is 4.4. Having opened my 95RX up I know that there are 20 magnets, so for a KT controller P1* should be set to...

Okey dokey. Thanks.

Yes, the cable is rated at 30A so perhaps I'm being "slightly pedantic"! Looking at setting C1, which has a table that seems slightly unclear, please could you confirm my thinking is correct: Forward 5 signal, 8 signal, 10 signal means the number of magnets that pass the sensor before power...

That's really helpful, thanks. I've downloaded the manual and had a quick look. Quite a lot of it but obviously it's a case of taking one thing at a time. Each item by itself looks fairly straightforward. The manual looks fairly well written, so I'm sure it will be easy when I know how...

Thanks for the brake sensor comment. That gives me confidence to try without first and see what happens. Yes, I was thinking in terms of un-soldering the existing short wires from the socket to the PCB and soldering on some longer leads that would connect the socket directly to the new KT...

I've cut to the chase. KT 17A SW controller and LCD3 arrived today. I'll bypass the integrated JYT speed controller and just use it as a battery base. I would remove the controller circuit board altogether but the battery connector is fixed to it, so I'll just disconnect it and run power cables...

Always good to look for the simple things first. Next project, install better lighting in workshop lol.

UPDATE Sorry for the delay - things are a bit spasmodic on the e-bike front! I managed to remove the gear assembly with the axle clamped in a vice and two large flat screwdrivers to prise the assembly off. Wasn't too hard with more or less even effort on either side, once I had got it moving...

More useful comments, thanks. It was more the weight distribution that was worrying me, but from what you both say it's probably not a big deal, especially as I'm not an expert mtb rider and not looking for technically challenging rides. I'm of an age where if I crash I'm more likely to break...

Sound advice as ever from Nealh :)

Interesting to hear a practical comment. Encouraging too. So, brake sensors can be useful even without a throttle... I tend to park up a couple of miles out and ride in - the parking is expensive unles you can fill a car with people, although there is no other entry charge. I didn't know it is...

Sorry Woosh, I missed the hyperlink. Unfortunately it's all in Chinese... can't see a way of changing it to English, or translating in Firefox. TBH I think you are quite right about it not being straightforward! It's outside my skill set and I don't have the will or time to learn about that...

Ah well, I think it's down to funding a puller. If I can get the gear assembly off the duff motor and substitute the good one (that's the one that stayed in the case) and see if it runs well, I'll know where I am... hopefully. Beyond that it's looking like time to give up! I hate giving up...

I want to find out if the hub motor is acceptable for basic mtb use before considering whether to go for crank drive. I know crank drive is superior, but I only ride mtb occasionally and my skills are basic. Hub drive may be good enough for riding trails and the easier bits of single track at...

UPDATE Hi Saneagle, Unfortunately my connectors are indeed the waterproof type and the controller is potted. Worse, the controller is integrated with the battery base and the battery socket is on the pcb so, whilst I can remove the controller from the base and see the pcb, it's all covered by...