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Thanks Matthew, I had a Google after posting and I think this explains having 6 phase wires for different voltage/current. as you say, much easier to join the wires inside the motor and as a bonus to OP, the new cable should easily pass through the hole in the axle being alot thinner.:)...

Interested to understand this, not come across this setup before. I'm curious as to why these extra winding takeoffs appear to have originally been seperate and exited the motor spindle. Could they have been used as secondary phase wires to produce a lower powered/speed motor? This would maybe...

TBH I have no idea, not worked on a motor like this one. If you have watched the video of cable replacement, you can see that you need good access to the axle where the cable enters the motor on the inside and I can't see removing the outer casing is not going to give you this.

Re attach the freewheel leaving enough room for the legs of the puller to go under it. You can't put the puller legs on the outside of the casing, it will either bend or break. TBH, I can't see how it's gonna help removing the cover as the cable exits behind that rivetted steel plate. Edit...

I would want to test the motor is working before spending any money out on controller, battery etc. as well as taking the info above into account.

The Powabyke lithium batteries i've come across have been a bit unusual,being assembled in a 10S3P config. with no BMS using Sanyo 2000mah cells. AFAIK they remained like this for many years of production, so must have been tested and passed as safe. There are those who refer to BMS's as...

Torque sensor bottom bracket, it applies power to the motor depending on driving pressure on pedals.

A link to your battery may be of help to others if they are getting hard to find.

Not come across this issue before, I would advise you live with it if the battery is otherwise working/charging OK. BMB Battery sell a replacement BMS to fit the bottle case, but may not be a plug and play replacement...

Before you write off your charger, have you taken a voltage reading from the battery output?

Wisper is another UK company with very good CS, spares availablity and range of bikes worth a look.

Ebike vision Bosch batteries in the UK, bit pricey though:eek: https://www.allbatteries.co.uk/searchengine/result/?q=bosch+ebike Edit-not alot more than German site.

This image shows how the motor sits in a standard frame. This is how it is likely to sit on your frame, maybe a little higher. It's only the screw and clip in the way, the cable will pass through the gap.

So as not to mislead anyone, it may be a little premature to highly recommend someone/something until you have the battery back and have run it for a while to ensure it works as it should.

I've used strong neodymium magnets to hold the wires onto the nickel strip to charge strings of cells with good success...

53.1v is low for a fully charged 48v battery, which could mean it's out of balance. You need a multi meter to read the charger and battery voltage, essential bit of kit for an ebike owner...

Sorry, my poor attempt at humour, I was referring to the box........I'll get my coat.

There's something fishy about this.........

I too would have happily grabbed this if closer to home and agree it's worth you putting a new battery on it to sell.

It's an LED display.