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The 13 Ah Hailong offers better value, but it's a 32mm longer, so make sure it will fit. You need to allow a little more length to slide on/off the mounting base plate. The centre of the battery case is a little lower at the top/centre, which does allow the case to slide a liitle further towards...

I'm not that clued up on such things, but I'm fairly certain you are within your rights to refuse the replacement and demand a refund, esp. a week after purchase. Why send you a new battery if there is nothing wrong with the one you have? I would love to know what apparatus they used to diagnose...

Worth letting them know and sending some photos of the damage to the cells even if just to make them aware of the design problem of the case. A couple of layers of kapton tape over those vulnerable cells would have saved the damage to the shrinkwrap insulation. If it's any consolation, cell...

Yes, try your best to get your money back, then get in contact with Jimmy @ebike batteries who can more than likely recell your old battery, increase it's capacity and save you £200. https://ebikebatteries.co.uk/recelling/

Spray some WD40 down the fork legs inside the seals and hit the brace between the stantions with a mallet or a block of wood and a hammer and they should free off.

That's strange, the ends look level on the new ones, they must be broken;)

Well done that man!! :)Respect for your perseverence on this one. I had my head in my hands more than once, so I hate to think how you felt. Now you know the motor works , get it all bolted back together and insulate all those wires well, asp. inside the motor, before further testing.

It's really difficult to find off the shelf battery packs for your type of motor, assuming it's a large direct drive type, without building it yourself or getting a custom built one, which will cost even more. This is not helped by the worldwide shortage of branded cells at the moment. You could...

I suspect the unsprung fork leg is stuck/rusted in the stantion, try pulling on them or fitting the wheel and bouncing on the front end.

Like I've said, on your budget, you are not going to find a high capacity/performance battery with branded cells. Forget the Tesla thing, it's a sales gimick to draw buyers in with a brand name and has no bearing on the quality of the battery pack. Even if the cells were genuine, they would not...

They are a Chinese seller, ask them why the long shipping time if shipped from UK? The cell description is very suspect as it states Tesla Panasonic 48G cells. 48G's are actually made by Samsung, so who knows what you will get!

For your budget those batteries prob. represent the best you will find with unspecified, unbranded cells. Tesla cells dosen't really mean much as this Aliexpress listing shows. I don't see any mention of Panasonic in the ad...

Sorry, but I'm struggling to keep up with the endless number of threads and changes you are making. I will try to help you out where I can. I don't see the problem with the IEC connector setup you already have, but someone else obviously does.

Not sure what L terminal is, I would advise testing for voltage between the thick red and black wires on the connector block in #3.

Yellow wire goes to battery positive +, usually red, although your bike looks like it has been wired up by someone who is colour blind, so check with your meter.

The thin red wire from the controller is the switch wire.

Yes, yellow to + battery and the blue wire will go to the switch wire on the controller.

Yes, all KT displays will work with any KT controller. Just make sure the connector is correct.

If it worked before you took the motor wheel off, then as Nealh has said, it sounds like the motor connector is not fully pushed together, it often needs a good bit of push to fully engage to the line on the plug.

I think all that wiring was factory fitted to reduce speed of bike to legal UK limit with the option to increase it by reconfig. for other markets like US using the same motor.