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You are right, the orange wire needs battery voltage to activate the controller, you can run it through a switch or connect straight to + battery connection, but I can't identify where to solder it to the board. Some of your photos are a too fuzzy. Look for a connection marked Lock, LCK maybe?

40 amp covers the majority of motors in use with a small margin, so maximises it's suitability. It also matches the cells well. I'm sure UPP read the cell testing reviews Neath sorry Nealh ;) mentioned. Size and cost are also limiting factors.

You may already be aware, but both those drive units will fit upto a 73mm bottom brackets, so you can fit upto a 5mm spacer on the drive side and still get the lock nut to fit. You may run into chainline issues by doing this as you frame looks like it was designed to run a small, single...

The battery doesn't push current, the controller pulls it, so as long as the the BMS rating is above the controllers, it will not reach it's limit. Most controller ratings are +/- 1 amp, so you will be fine when you fancy being a holligan, in appropriate surroundings obviously.

Not really, unless you do it on a daily basis. I think it's been established that your pack obviously contains one or more bad cells, which will continue to throw it out of balance. Do you have pedal assist on your bike, as I've only read you mention a throttle? Using this at lower levels will...

If that battery is 19.2Ah with MH1 cells, that's 6P14S, so your 35 amp controller will draw 5.8 amps from each cell at full chuff, so they should do OK. Don't kid yourself, of course you will ;)

See post #14.

20 mph was an estimated speed, considering your wheel size and the 48T chainring normally supplied with the motor, it may well be higher. The HD is capable of more speed, but it's designed to run through multiple gears. I can't really see the point in using it in a single speed setup in standard...

Do you have battery voltage on the red/black wires on the connector marked 2,Z or N, can't tell which, with the bike turned on, assuming it has some sort of on/off switch?

Agreed, I think Jimmy would charge that kind of price at least.

Agree, most throttles are wired red/black/green, but the controller wiring can be any colour the manufacturer chooses. You can measure for 5v between red and black wires on those 2 connectors, but that does not mean either are suitable for a throttle, just that they are wired into the 5v rail in...

That's better!! I was looking on the wrong part of the website.

Just hope your on the canal tow path if the worse happens.

It depends what you want. If you are happy at 20 mph using the throttle, then single speed is fine, but if you want to ride putting in some effort yourself using PAS, then without gears you will spin out. As you are running 20" wheels, you should be OK with a 52 T chainring on the HD with your...

I think you're right SW, it's running a 150 amp Sabvoton controller. Seller emailed me a photo of the battery pack, it's huge, looks like 20P20S, but can't say which cells, so likely 2000mah Chinese jobs. Running at 7.5 amps on full chuff, they are not gonna last well. If the OP turns the...

Have you tried your friend's new battery on a ride out, using the throttle? As already mentioned, testing with the wheel off the ground proves nothing.

I agree with GLJoe, that tread pattern reminds me of the Avon Speedmaster I had on a motorcycle years ago. Fine on straight roads, tread lasts forever, but extremely buttock clenching on corners when you fell off the edge of the tread. A quick Google and I can't believe they still make them...

The battery needs to mach the controller max. amperage output, not the motor. What controller are you running?

If you plan on removing the rear motor, it might be worth considering a SA S-RK3 3 speed hub as a replacement. It would fit OK as you have horizontal dropouts. I've run one of these with a HD motor in the past, it stood up well, with no issues. There is also the heavy duty RX-RK5 5 speed, bit of...

This is the controller and LED display VFR recommended. It is not direct plug and play, you may need to do some soldering/change connectors. https://bmsbattery.com/home/1010-18243-s-ku65-controller-for-led810-250w15a-6mosfets-controller.html#/431-led-36v