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Side to side movement is OK, but if you can see any up and down movement, it's time to replace it. There's nothing to adjust. It's a sealed unit about £10 fro Halfords.

I would take a punt on that one if I needed one. You'll never know if you don't try. The first question is whether it fits in the case.

You can check. Take your wheel out and test the drop-out width with anything that's 10mm diameter, like a 10mm shoulder bolt, or you can use an M6 nut, which is 10mm accross its flats.

It still points to water in the LCD, which has probably dried out by now. if you go out in the rain, put a freezer bag over the LCD and hold it in place with a rubber band. maybe put a couple of rubber bands in a freezer bag and stuff them into the end of the handlebars for emergency use.

That's our Eddieo, who got banned from the forum along with his alta ego Indalo. We heard that he died a few years ago. That post is 7 years old, and I can't find any references to anything like that actually happening. I don't like to talk ill of the dead, but I'd say that the fact checkers...

Everything on your bike will work normally if you have the correct voltage on those two red and black wires. Your controller doesn't care where it comes from. Every option is open to you as long as you get the correct voltage 24v or 36v. Ready-made lithium cell-packs normally include a BMS...

Throttles are allowed in all Eu countries under EN 15194. They can work independently up to 6km/h. Even Bosch bikes have one. They're allowed to work beyond that up to 25km/h as long as power stops when you stop pedalling, though they don't specify how soon it must cut the power after the...

It's the button on the lower edge of the control panel.

That's a straight-forward conversion with a rear cassette motor and a downtube mounted battery. The drop-outs look a bit flimsy for a front motor, and you have a 9mm axle and lawyers lips on the drop-outs, which mean that you'll have to do some filing of the drop-outs to make them wide enough...

Use the thick black battery wire as ground. if you have the normal bullet connectos, you can stuff your probe under the sleeve so that you have both hands free for everything else. You only need to test the blue, green and yellow wires - the ones you've indicated. there's no danger of electic...

That's the three hall wires behind the top big purple capacitor. Test between any ground while everything is switched on and you rotate the wheel backwards.

I fully undersood that. Did you check the sensor or are you happy to carry on complaining?

The reason that the UK lagged behind other countries in their take-up of electric bikes has nothing to do with quality. Your average Chinese hub-motor will outlast and outperform most of those European offerings, and they're a lot easier to fix in the rare cases when they do need attention. To...

Basically, it can't be done unless the donor bike already has a belt drive. There's no way to get the belt on the rear sprocket on a conventional chain driven bike because the chain-stay is in the way. Frames for belt drives have a removable piece so that you can get the belts on. If you can...

For that type, the lid is normally detachable. Remove both end-plates, then see if the top slides out of the bottom. The join is about 6mm down the side. You can't see it until you start sliding.

The second part of your statement might be true, but your reason fo it isn't. Pedal sensors work at any rotation speed. If yours only works when you pedal fast, something is wrong. Maybe it got knocked too far away from the sensor. Have a look at it. If the gap is more than 1mm, wiggle the...

What battery does it use? If it's one that goes in that rear rack, you should adjust the rack so that it's as far forward as possible and it looks like it can go down a notch too. That will improve the handling a lot. It looks like 3" forward should be no problem, or 9" without that basket on it.

Did you look under the bottom bracket - that's the tube at the bottom of the frame where crank axle goes through.

That's good info. I wouldn't disagree with any of it; however, I would like to add a couple of points. A front motor is not a deal-breaker. You soon get used to it. Some people (not including me) wouldn't like it - the way it can affect the bike's handling, especially immediately after...

You can leave the freewheel on if you can get at the side-plate screws. It's easier to test the halls in the controller as long as you're careful not to short anything with the probes. Use a helper to turn the wheel backwards while you measure.