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No, that's not advisable. effectively, you'll be charging three of them through the discharge terminals, which bi-passes the charge safety controls. You need multiple chargers like this:

To save wasting more time, show us some photos.

Some history for you. The original Oxydrive kit was completely different and independent from the Oxygen bikes until they made the E-mate MTB in 2014, which used Das Kit electrics. The Oxydrive kit was then changed to Das Kit, so was identical. Oxygen stayed with Das Kit for a couple of years...

Let us know how you get on.

Make sure there's room for it regarding the shifters and brake.

OK, you win. All electric bikeds are illegal. What should we do now? Should the forum close because of incitement to comit offences or should we all put on ninja suits to hide our identity and ride like hell every time we see a policeman, like that scooter rider did?

You don't need to replace the cable if it's working. It's a fallacy that cables stretch. That's what bike shops tell you when they want to make extra money out of their customers. You repla e cables when they're visibly damaged or rusty.

What you're saying doesn't make sense. The rim can't rub on the drop-outs because it's held away by the spokes. If you have a 26" wheel, the nearest the rim can come to the drop-outs is 13" away. You need to show us what's rubbing and what arrangement you have on your axle.

I have seen many cars travelling faster than 112.9 mph. None of them killed anyone. What you're saying is similar to if an asteroid hit our planet it might wipe out all human life, so let's slow down population growth with a vaccine to save lives.

With your weight you'd be better off using a larger motor like the Bafang BPM or SWX02 or whatever the latest designations are. Another good one is the AKM128 also known as the Q128.. Also very important is that you choose a low RPM one. If you're not bothered about speed, a 201 rpm one will...

That's my opinion too. 35km/h is nice. Any faster becomes less enjoyable and more dangerous.

It was only the performance Line CX motors that had the drag and only on the pedalling. There was no drag when free-wheeling

There's only one person who's been killed by an ebike in the UK. The rider was apparently riding an unrestricted over-powered bike and he was found not guilty by the jury of all charges.

Everything in the photos looks good to me. There's still the possibility that something happened ages ago and it's been running sensorless until it got a new problem, like a popped mosfet. You could buy a new dual-mode controller and see how it runs sensorless. They normally run pretty well...

One like this should work if you have room for it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-24V-36V-48V-60V-72V-Throttle-Ebike-With-Battery-Power-Display-Thumb-Gs1DIH2/294094615392?hash=item447967b360:g:3zoAAOSw2vpfmhKI These ones too...

Don't waste your time and money. Why do you want connectors when you have a removeable battery? Just cut the connectors off and solder the wires together - cheaper, quicker, more reliable win, win, win. You could have had it done by now instead of writing about it.

Your problem is that the cable is too slack in top gear. You put it in the highest (smallest) gear, adjust the derailleur's position with the end-stop screw, then fully screw in the cable adjuster and adjust the cable clamp position until it just has some tension, but not enough to move the...

I've taken them apart using a 5mm cap screw sitting upside down in the dimple, then whack it with a big hammer and drift. The trick is to heat up the motor between the spokes with a hot air gun until it's just too hot to touch. if you don't use heat, all those type of screw on plate motors are...

It was a Rothmans NC24, but sadly had to go a couple of years ago due to arthritis. I'm now relegated to an NT700V Deauville and a 300 Forza scooter. You have a conventional magnet disc type pedal sensor, so no problem there. It should work with the new controller as long as you check the...

That wouldn't stop the halls from switching. One thing occured to me. Maybe you have a dual mode controller that's been running sensorless. Try resoldering that blue wire, then see if it works..