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There's no boundary between OK and not OK. There's ideal, not ideal and everything in between. The further you are from ideal, the more not ideal it becomes. You have to prioritise characteristics to meet your needs. You said you wanted range. Motors that are too fast for their power don't...

It what you're saying is correct and you can't adjust it by the method explained in the manual, then you have a special software version, so you'd have to get a new LCD to unlock it. Which LCD do you have?

Make sure that you describe exactly what you want to do with tht bike after conversion, and tell us your weight. It's important.

A stand alone policy will be very expensive. I'd save my money, not bother with insurance and use the lock you've got unless you're going to lock it in the same public place every day. No doubt if you get your £150 stand alone insurance, your bike will pack up the following day and you'll lose...

That MXUS motor is 270 RPM. It'll be OK at 48v in a 26" wheel, but not a 29" one. A lot depends on the speed you ride. Anything below 15 mph would make it run inefficiently at full power, which would compromise range and cause overheating. It would be no good on hills, climbing at 7.5 mph...

Nice sentiments. I've got my own statistics. Whenever I'm out riding and I see people on electric bikes, I talk to them if I can. 100% of the Crossfire/Vulcan owners had problems with their bikes involving non-function in some way or another. The Suntour torque sensor system is absolute pants...

Sheng yi

I've told you how to check the battery in a way that will reveal the source of the problem. It's not complicated to do.

I think you two should learn how to use Google. This is what you do: Type "pf41 adapter" into the search box, and boom, there they are for £9.80, which turns out to be £17 with postage...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/263873679303

How did you come to that conclusion? Do you see an unchangeable 16km/hr in the max speed setting?

That shows that your battery is good. As the battery goes down, one green light goes out, then the next, then the next, leaving the red light to show that it's low. The connector you showed in the photo is the one to pull. If you're lucky, it might reset the BMS. If you still have no voltage...

That should all be OK. It's standard Yose stuff that many forum members have used. The brake sensor is fine, and if you're lucky, it'll be plug and play, otherwise ask how to wire it in. Note that the brake sensor has to be the right way round to work. The arrows in the picture could mean two...

I can understand that if you're looking for a bike or a motor where there are a lot of different characteristics, but what is there to discuss about a simple spacer?

You were too quick. I changed what I wrote when i realised that that's not the output connector.. First you have to get the voltage on the battery terminals. Before, you had 0.2v. What do you have now?

Is it fixed now or not? if not, pull the big white multipin connector, then plug it back in again - see if that fixes it.

Looks OK. Pull it apart and check inside just in case, then push it back together - all the way. Check the motor cable for damage where it comes out of the axle, then everywhere else. The next thing is to look at any connectors the other end. The controller is in the compartment at the front...

I wouldn't.

The idea of the BMS is to protect you and the battery. If you go too high on the allowed current, there's not so much protection. If you want high power, it's better to go higher on the voltage rather than the current. High currents mean massive wires, terminals and connectors, all of which cost...

Whatever carrier you use, never rely on the clamp fixings. Always wrap a velcro strap around to guarantee that the bike is still held. Don't rely on the clamp-locks as security. Whether you have them or not, make sure that your bikes are securely locked to the carrier with a prober bike lock of...