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As @FJC71 says, peak powers of 500w+ are quite legal (you'll find internet comments on this in plenty and the commercial ebike motors from the likes of Bosch and Shimano and Yamaha are the same) As an experiment I fitted a handlebar mounted watt meter to see what amps/watts etc were being drawn...

I've not played around with this area of OSF - so I'm just guessing but have you tried un-ticking the 'Street power limit enabled' box even though the dialogue box for 'Street power limit (W)' suggest that peak power's of 500w are achievable (but the accompanying PDF manual with the configurator...

You say when climbing hills you get NO assistance, as in the motor cuts out? What is your pedal cadence when climbing hills. Anything much over 95rpm will see reduced assistance and above about 115rpm, just about nil assistance (at least, that's how I understand things).

Some great info there @Sturmey - thanks. I've now re-read the Grin tchnology piece and I sort of understand it and your last couple of posts have helped too. And I can't remember where I read it now but as a rule of thumb the article said that 80% of nominal RPM was generally the most...

Thanks for all of your replies I'll give the Arduino option a miss for the moment (I last played around with an Arduino about 4 years ago and I've forgotten most of what I learnt, so a steep re-learning curve :rolleyes: ) but remoting the data to a smaller screen is worth a thought? And...

As Neal said, the new controller can't be re-programmed with the Open Source Firmware (OSF) as it uses a different microcontroller to the original. However, whilst OSF brings general improvements to the OEM version (and hence a quieter more efficent motor) and on top of which you can do more...

I've played around with a couple of watt/power meters (pics below) One of them I've 'built in' to a battery discharge tester and the other I temporarily mounted on the bike's handlebars so I could better understand battery behaviour vs pedal assist and so on What I found most useful was knowing...

I'm always suspicious of folks who wear their caps backwards :rolleyes: and I'd no intention of watching 22 mins of his prattle. So I'm wondering what might have been in that video that went to answering the questions I raised in this post - anyone? Thanks to those who replied to my original...

Thanks for the graph and link @Sturmey - I found the Grin piece on BLDC motors rather beyound my understanding - I'll look for something simpler me thinks :confused: . The graph is more easily understood - what is the source for this please? As an 'unassisted' rider of many years, I use my...

Thanks Neal - I've included the annotated pic below for others less familiar with the motor 6 pin pin arrangement.

My understanding of BLDC theory is poor, so some clarification on a couple of motor parameters will be gratefully received. 1. My TSDZ2 for instance, has on its rating label '4000 RPM' - what is this telling me? Is it that the motor gives its max torque at this RPM or something else? - and if...

A question (and apologies if I've lost the plot): 1. As I understand it, there are two generations of controller with the latest one using a different microprocessor and the Open Source Firmware (OSF) does not work with it 2. The new TSDZ2b - which generation controller is fitted to this motor...

The misalignment maybe due to how the battery case is attached to the rack (e.g. causing case distortion). If it were me I'd remove the battery case from the bike rack and then see how well the battery fitted, and take the problem from there.

At a guess and definitely not scientific, I'd say 'no harm' given that some folks (you can read about them on the endless sphere forum) drive these motors at 750w over mountain trails in goodness knows what ambient temperatures and rider weights (but they do get problems mind you - over heating...

Not wishing to overcomplicate things but in an effort for your conversion kit to go well:- Going back to the relative width of the motor on its axle, this dimension is often referred to as the OLN (as in Over Lock Nut), so look out for this on the seller's blurb. The first thing to consider is...

Well, yes and no (just to put this into perspective for new to e-bike readers.). I came to my ebike (TSDZ2 conversion of a Dawes Galaxy) due to reducing cycling power (an age thing :confused:) and thus I used the motor to get me back to my 'pre-aged' level, and as such I use ECO mode almost...

It takes a bit of doing and you may have to jiggle (technical term o_O )the motor and outer around a bit. That's a good point about the deformation where the cable clamps onto the rear derailleur. TBH I can't remember for sure whether I changed the whole cable or not (and I've done three...

Assuming that your bike is fitted with a standard Square Taper bottom bracket, then watch this YT clip HERE or one of the many others on the subject. Do remember that the fixing on one side is a LEFT handed thread so it needs to be undone clockwise (I can't never remember which side - just...

I have the TSDZ2 (250w 36v) and rarely ride more than the ECO setting and my 10Ah (nominal) bottle battery (measured at 9.75Ah) gives me a good 50+ miles, so yes, the 40 mile estimate is highly likely. Could be - I had a number of BMS issues (cutting out, not charging properly) so I wired it in...

If you don't mind me saying so, you'll maybe attract more interest if you give some details about usage (inclding miles covered which gives a rough idea of charge/discharge cycles) and age of the battery. If used only lightly, then a buyer needs to know how the battery has been stored. Selling...