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As a general principle, what every power needs to go into the e-bike battery for a full charge, you'll need to provide at least 10% more power from your charging source (and that's assuming your charging source is 90% efficient). My electrical theory is very rusty, so dear readers, please put...

I have a 250w 36v TSDZ2 with a VLCD6 display and a 10Ah bottle battery and the battery has dveloped a peculiar 'feature' in that: - the bottle battery has an in-built on/off switch: - if I mount the battery into the bottle cage and then switch the ON/OFF switch on, the motor will not power...

From the comparisons that you've done and the close/similar spec between the two bikes, it really does seem that your motor system is suspect. Don't be fobbed off either, you have strong empirical evidence that all is not well.

If it is glue then try applying heat from a hair drier or heat gun to see if the glue is loosened/softened and then gently pry apart.

This is a bit of a wild (maybe dumb-ass) thought in that on reading the link posted by Trevor Brooker, and in post #3 at that link by @vfr400 , he outlines the complexities of sensing wire configurations and the number of possible combinations that there are with different BMS. So here is the...

So an update along with some diagnosis on my own 36v 250w TSDZ2 with VLCD6 display: - this motor is a couple of months old and has 1440Km on the clock, is ridden mostly in ECO mode with the assist speed set to 25kmh - so it's had a gentle life. after a few intermittent cases of the display not...

The ease of removing/fitting Marathon Plus tyres does to some extent depend on the particular rim with some rims being easier than others. That youtube video above is now a good few years old and the guy doing the tyre fitting is 'Colin', a renowned wheel builder who used to work for Spa Cycles...

Marathon plus tyres have their appeal regarding their resistance to puncturing but their roll resistance makes them a dog to ride (you'll maybe only appreciate this fact if you're used other tyres to compare against). And if you do have to remove a marathon plus tyre for any reason, they can be...

@Flynn for those of us who didn't see the original post, would you mind posting the link to your eBay seller please. Cheers.

Yep, my programming dongle is just about identical to @Swizz's too

I think @Nealh was wondering about the type of plug that goes into the battery? However, it sounds as though you can deal with any plug differences yourself (chop off the original, solder and heat-shrinking I guess?)

Do you mean one of these? I used to use a 12 inch steel ruler as typically described in this article here to check chain wear. Then I bought one of the above and did a comparison and found the drop-in wear detector was accurate enough for me. Over the years and 10's of thousands of miles of...

What is it that raises your suspicions? Out of interest, and what might that be?

It might be just a random thing in that there aren't enough customs agents to process the literally tons of stuff that comes from abroad. I had 4x TSDZ2 kits and batteries from Germany over several weeks/packages during September, and no duty or anything (and all in less than 6 working days...

The OP is using a VLCD6 which may be using a 6-pin Higo cable unless they went for eBrakes and/or the throttle option in which case it will be the 8-pin cable. @Nealh - I mentioned the possibility of bypassing the VLCD6 display in a couple of posts above - below is the pinout of the 6-way and...

@Eno Yes. Yes, but that post goes to show that over-voltage can be a problem for the controller, so measuring the voltage will be useful if for no other reason than it can be eliminated as one of the possible causes. I was led to ask you about the voltage as you said earlier: Did this happen...

And somewhere along the line I picked up this little nugget of info - might it be relevant?

A good point - @Nealh - this post HERE shows a method of bypassing a suspect KT-LCD3 display - is there something similar that @Eno could do for the VLCD6 and then he could do a 20+ min ride to see if things are better?

Thanks for the info and hopefully someone with more knowledge than myself will be along shortly. Now that is an interesting observation. Can you measure the voltage when it is fully charged? for a 36v battery, it should be around 41.5v and also what is the voltage at the point the motor...

I've just replied to your first post with some questions to help out with your motor problem - maybe keep things in just one post for problems?