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By pedal arms do you mean cranks arms? The chunk between the bottom bracket axle and the pedals? Yes. On cheaper ones the right hand one will have the front chainwheel(s) rivetted on. On more expensive ones the right hand one will have a spider for fitting the front chainwheels. You'd probably...

I completely misread that; I read it as referring to web based computer art.

and most of that is probably for the heater. I don't know how much power a washing machine motor takes at full spin.

Excellent, glad you've sorted it. It seems my accidental off-topic posts weren't off-topic after all!

What's more important is how safe the car is for people other than the occupants.

I think that is not generally recommended, though it might depend on the charger. I found it sparks on connection when I do that; I don't do it any more. I'm pretty sure saneagle (much more reliable then me) has commented the same, pointing out that it can cause damage to the connection terminals.

Putting marketing (at which Swytch are excellent) above customer support, to maximize profit.

How long was it on the charger before you got got green light on the charger? It should have been several hours. That's quite a low capacity battery, but would still be over 3 hours with a typical 2amp charger. By 'all green lights' do you mean all the battery lights green? As saneagle says...

Nothing gaffer tape won't fix.

Just to expand a tiny bit on Peter.Bridge's excellent comments above. The rating is 'rated continuous'. As he says it's the controller that determines the actual power input to the motor at any time (as long as the battery is capable of delivering). That will be at least 750w and will still be...

You are right. It is me that was really confused. For some reason I got crank removal into my head at the start and it just stuck. I think I got mixed up with another thread. Crossed threads in too many ways.

Apologies ~~~ this is about crank removal, not about BB removal as in the original post. Crossed threads in my lack of brain. The crank bolts and the threads on the cranks to take the puller are all standard clockwise to screw in, anticlockwise to unscrew. The inside of the puller is standard...

Another mistake is forgetting to take out the crank bolt before using the tool. (I've made both those mistakes in my time.)

More range is one reason, though it seems simpler just to switch two batteries for that. Another is if the main battery has proprietary handshaking and replacement/extras are very expensive. That relies on being able to connect the second (non-proprietary) battery in such a way that the...

Or rather? they inherited it from the horse trade.

If all goes well we hope our current car (12 year old Roomster) will be our last.

I hardly ever use one on a bike, but when I do I use OruxMaps. I don't think it's suitable for route planning. Consider https://cycle.travel/ for that. The reason I use Orux is mainly because it gives access to a wide range of maps (in particular Open Street Map and it's variants) suitable for...

Unless Matthew has a more sophisticated puller then mine ... then (1) make sure the puller's inside is fully unscrewed, then (2) screw the puller's outside as far as you can into the crank, (3) then screw the puller's inside, and off the crank will come. If you forget (1) you can't screw the...

I think the best solution at the moment for very lightweight bikes and hills is still pushing. Maybe that depends on how bitter you find the taste of shame.

Good luck. Judging by the number of complaints about X35 batteries on Cycling UK forum anyone who solves this will be highly lauded by many. eg https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=156980