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The problem is in the title: Motor for 130 mm rear drop outs All O.P. can find is 135 mm motors and is concerned about springing his titanium frame.

That can easily be achieved with an extension lead, a small fan heater and as smart a smart plug as you can be bothered to use. Totally non-proprietary, the fan heater (Pifco?) doesn't have to be provided by the same manufacturer as the car (DAF). When we lived in Durham (which can get cold)...

So ... buying a second hand Goretex jacket is pretty much like buying a second hand ebike battery. Chances are it will be fine, but there's lots that might have gone wrong.

Didn't you have a Santana CD at some point? What became of that?

I think they should rename the 'beginner' to 'beginner/ender'. 10-12 mph is mine and I'm certainly not a beginner.

I've always wondered why torque sensing systems didn't work like that. I'd even asked on the forum a couple of times if there was a reason why not, but never got a response.

If the old rim is 36 holes the hub motor must be; you will need a new 36 hole rim.

And many such LBSs won't even let you have a test ride, or just grudgingly a 2 minute ride round the (flat) car park.

Reposted from https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=159360 because I thought it would be of interest. "Yamaha Motor announced that it has established ENYRING GmbH as a new company that will offer swappable batteries for compact urban electric vehicles via subscription-based services."...

Make sure they are very close in voltage before connecting them, or use a protection circuit.

I'd certainly strongly resist the use of mopeds or speed pedelecs assisted to 25mph on cycle paths.

I only use MP as well, but one weakness is that it's not very good on sideways slip; probably worse than most on manhole covers. (I avoid those too when I can unless I'm going absolutely straight.)

Technically, if you can switch then it is not legal even when in lower power/speed mode. There's some discussion about exactly what 'switch' means; probably OK if it means reprogramming the controller, certainly not OK if it's something you can easily do while riding.

Yes, good quality steel still has many benefits. Slightly more flex gives a smoother ride than some firmer materials, much easier to weld if you have any issues, easier (with care) to widen the spread of the dropouts, doesn't suffer significant fatigue.

There are lots of hidden mists (even big hidden fogs) after the initial ones clear. I suggest you post your proposed order here before actually ordering; one of the experts (not me) may well notice an issue or be able to suggest an improvement.

Advertises lots of service points around Europe; none in the UK and most of the UK isn't even on their map.

When I commuted by Glasgow canal many years ago I fitted Hutchison reinforced tyres and they were 100% effective against glass. Back in Winchester and the thorns got through them in not time, much worse than glass. The Marathon Plus have done fine against glass and thorns.

p.s. When we first got our XF07 kit I didn't realize about this. If you held the brake on as you powered up the motor you got an error '25'. As soon as you released the brake it was fine; the controller had decided the brake sensor was in good order, and pulling the break again did not make the...

There's probably a sensor in one (or both) of the brake levers that is for some reason detecting you have the handbrake on. Check the levers and you'll see wires coming out. Look in detail at the lever. The sensor is a hall sensor and a magnet. When the lever is open (brake off) these should...

Or try a set of jiggler keys