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It may be easier to state/show which bike it is. Different bike brands tend to use batteries from specific manufacturers.

Looking at Hitway's website, all their bikes seem to be generic Chinese styles simply rebranded with their own name. In many cases, they may be made for an international market where, in the US for example, 20mph is allowed, and in those cases the bike can often be easily switched from 15.5mph...

AFAIK Fiido's bikes made specifically for the UK market have the brakes the right way around (eg my own D11). If your brakes are reversed, it's likely an EU model imported - eg: sold by Banggood who for a long while were shipping EU stock from Poland into the UK. But yes, nothing to stop you...

My cable is a black sheathed one - probably one that @guerney suggested - that uses a Robotdyn CH340G USB to TTL. It works fine with both Win10 and 11 on cheap Lenovo laptops, and my Android 'phone with the Speeed app from the play store using a short ebay USB-C to A adaptor lead.

Do the battery bars on the display go down quickly and then the display cuts-out completely too OR just the motor loses power yet the display stays on? 450 miles over two years suggests the bike is sitting around an awful lot between rides, and that you needed a replacement battery after just...

This may not help as these images are from a TranzX rear-rack battery but 36v BL07's BMS of about the same vintage as the BL03. You can see the white/blue wires run from the BMS (unfortunately the PCB print/marking is obscured) and ARE meant to be connected at the output. Also, the label...

The round plug is for the older UART protocol, and the newer house-shaped plug is CANbus. Some of Bafangs displays are available in both.

There's an old ad for one on FB that shows that bike uses a Yolin YL70E display. Those are preconfigured at the factory to each manufacturers specs my manual says based on 3 core versions (although I know there have been other variants added since my manual). According to my manual for it, only...

You probably mean Petrigo? Petrigo currently make 59 different e-bike models, each of which can be specified with different motors, controllers, displays. You're going to need to be far more specific as to which you're talking about - either give a link or post photos.

Seeing as Bicycles4u don't exist anymore, you may find something similar on ebay/Ali that'll work. There are a few combined throttle/3-LED battery display/on-off switch assemblies there for scooters/ebikes. You'd first need to check and maybe change the wiring sequence with a bit of...

Many makers now tend to lock-out features that may once have been available to stop users messing with them. For example, the Wheel Size setting; the "circuit board on the motor" (i.e. the controller) would have been programmed at the factory for the wheel size fitted to your bike. The only...

I don't know for sure, but from what little I do know about Estarli my bet would be that they'll have the system locked to stop you doing that.

Same here... a short 6" lead from my displays micro-USB directly into the camera keeps it running all the time. I suppose if you haven't got a 5v USB at the handlebar an external power-pack might be an answer, because I'm not aware of any action-camera that can run for much longer than 2 hours...

Isn't that TranzX's M25 motor? IIRC that was notoriously unreliable, so much so it was routinely/frequently replaced in the US and didn't stay in production very long. Have you had the bike(s) tested using TranzX's Logix plug-in diagnostics? I doubt you'd be able to fathom much without it, and...

Yes... One of my e-bikes is a Fiido D11 which I've owned from new since mid 2021. It's been good/reliable. Which model(s) are you looking at and for what purpose?

I've just read through a new Tenancy from last year, and there's nothing mentioned there save for a condition to abide by any restrictions in the insurance. I've a new Tenancy going through at the moment, so I'll take a read through that when it comes through. These things do constantly update I...

Trust me here, because this is intended to be helpful to you... If you want help, you need to turn down the attitude. @saneagle knows the information you need is on this forum because he wrote it (and I remember reading it). As an ex-e-bike mechanic, he knows more about your bike than anyone...

I saw one chained to a bike-rack in town last week. It's been discussed here before so I had a closer look. I thought it looked pretty respectable for a sub-£1000 e-bike. As already mentioned though, you need to consider what you do if/when it goes wrong. I don't know anything about how Eleglide...

That's conventional electricians logic... A standard UK ring main today is wired with 16A 2.5mm copper PVC insulated, fused at 32A. In the 1960's/70's there was a period where the UK wired that same circuit with 1.5mm copper MINERAL insulation and still fused at 32A. In other words, a 1.5mm...

If you can't wake it, I doubt it's worth bothering wasting too much time on it when you can buy a brand new replacement with perky cells for about £150 from Yose (it's this one I think). It's higher capacity at 10.4Ah against your worn 8.6Ah too. It depends how you value/measure the worth of...