Search results

All of my five 36v e-bike batteries (2 x Fiido, 2 x Phylion*, 1 x TranzX*) continue to draw (typically) 18w once the charger LED turns green. It takes another 0.5 to 1 hour before current draw drops below 3w, which is, I'd assume, when balancing has actually stopped? *These too are Sans chargers.

As I understand it, the OP's battery is new and likely been sitting in storage for some time since manufacture before being first used. All the charger LED turning to green means is that the battery is drawing below (typically) 2-300mv. It's still topping-off/balancing for some time thereafter...

Surely that's the benefit of lower cost, coil sprung shocks? I often ride a mix of smooth road and rough trail. With a simple coil-sprung Suntour NEX fork, you simply variably rotate between firm and soft whilst on the ride. None of this "add more air" or "let air out" nonsense to accommodate a...

I've got a set of Suntour NEX forks on one of my e-bikes: They're absolutely fine for what the bike cost and what the bike is used for... in the same way that you wouldn't fit professional RaceShocks suspension on a Dacia.

Post #1 Post #5 Does not compute! 4 bars is NOT a full charge! As @matthewslack says, charge the battery until the LED on the charger turns green and then let it charge for a few hours more to allow it to fully balance, then test-ride again.

Did the LED display on the handlebars go off too? If so, it could be the battery voltage sagging under load to a too-low level where the BMS cuts the power. That's most likely if you were using a high level of assist, perhaps going up a hill, and even more likely if the battery is older or worn...

Buy a Raleigh Stow-E Electric Folder 2022 from E-Bikes Direct Having sometimes bought 5 washing machines or 5 fridges at a time, I've always relied on John Lewis' expert advice. Apart from their price match guarantee and extended warranties as standard, they only stock and sell what they've...

Looking at this TranzX system, it's simply a "de-skilling" tool. It allows "proper" traditional "grease-monkey" bike mechanics who may be devoid of any electrical skills the ability to sell, service and repair a growth segment of their market with some confidence which they might otherwise...

It didn't cost anything; I just happened to be talking to the right person at the right time and they gave me a link to download a copy (although that link doesn't work anymore). I haven't actually needed to use it yet but it's interesting to play with/see what it does.

Ah, okay. Never-the-less, whilst TranzX isn't that well known a brand over here, they too are still a pretty big company supplying bicycle parts and electronics to these bike brands, so future parts shouldn't be a problem:

As @soundwave pointed out Raleigh is a part of Winora; many Winora bikes Europe use TranzX drive systems (all the Stow-e-way electronic parts still feature in TranzX's current catalogue), so I think there's a good probability it'll be around for a while yet. More of a worry is it's a CANbus...

The Stow-e-way is well reviewed by ebiketips here. It features in several of their own "Best Buy" tables. The same bike is also sold as the Raleigh Evo. Raleigh often show it at Caravan and Motorhome shows and exhibitions (I guess that's a clue as to where they see a good chunk of their market)...

Other members here have had trouble getting in touch with "Swifty"... This thread may be worth a read. This member was looking for what seems to be a 36v version (WZKD3613KA) of the same controller for his Swifty bike.

That's my bad. I didn't realise Schwalbe did so many variants of tyre wearing the same "Marathon Plus" name. Those Marathon Plus MTBs are listed in Schwalbes city/tour section (i.e. not in their cross, gravel or MTB section). Would they be preferable to some of their other softer/more compliant...

The OP is hoping to cycle canal paths. IMHO Marathon Plus are great for on-road use, but too slippy for the varied terrain you often find on canal paths. I'd have thought one of the other Schwalbe tyres - a wider, trekking oriented tyre might be better for both comfort and grip on a mix of...

The Fiido D21 uses a true Torque Sensor so relies on how much pressure you put into the pedals to determine how much assistance is given from the motor - as Woosh described above. The cheaper Fiido D11 is exactly the same bike, but uses a Cadence Sensor to provide a combination of Current...

For my commuting use, I'd be happy with a D4S, but preferred the D11 as it's a bit lighter and cost wasn't an issue for me. It's been great for that. For your use (Canal riding), I'd buy the RadRhino as you were thinking, except I wouldn't want to be manhandling 33kg at age 70 up and down steps...

Yes, here. Change the currency on the top-right of the page to show prices in £. Fiido hold stock/have warehouses in Poland, US, UK etc... My D11 was shipped from their UK warehouse in Bath. Mine arrived by 48hr courier. On my D11, the way the throttle is implemented is technically illegal in...

AFAIK, all Fiido bikes come with mudguards in the box, although usually not already fitted. Some are more effective than others. The D4s has pretty good ones, shown fitted on their product page linked above.

Who are the "many people" saying that? Bicycleland and Vive were the two best known UK retailers for reselling Fiido (both East London); Vive sold a few below normal prices before they went out of business. It's often possible to import from overseas for less apparent cost, but (if it's caught)...