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We use KT controllers, which come in a range of sizes and powers. The 14A and 15A ones are the smallest. The 17A can be the same as the 15A ones or slightly bigger. The 20A one is slightly bigger than the 15A ones and the 22A (9FET) ones are bifgger still. When choosing one, you have to think...

Can you measure it - length, width and height?

AFAIK, they work with 52v batteries that go up to 58.8v.

KT controllers have a memory of some sort. If you already ran it with a 36v battery, it probably still thinks you have one. Try disconnecting the battery and short out the connector on the controller side to discharge the capacitors, then, if that doesn't do it, reset the LCD to factory settings.

Noise is when the pulses from the controller are not synchronised with the motor. Often, the controller will not fire any pulses if it detects a problem, but if you have a marginal problem, you'd get the symptoms you describe. You have to find the cause. Running it like that can blow the controller.

Soldering is best. I wouldn't advise screw type because the copper will oxidise over time and cuse problems. Soldering is easy enough. Get at least a medium sized iron 60w absolute minimum. strip back the wires bout 5mm and flatten the conductors a bit, then heat up with the iron while you...

Yes, but they don't have to be expensive. It's a fairly modern fassion. Older bikes are normally cheaper and in other respects often make better donors than modern bikes.

It's a standard 12mm thin nut, also known as a jam nut, that you can get from Ebay, screwfix or anywhere. As you nearly always need a washer on that side to get the correct caliper alignment, you can go a bit thicker on it, but not too far. You need 12mm x 1.25 and 3mm or maybe 5mm thick. I...

It's no problem to solder the wires. In fact it's better than using connectors. That's assuming that you have a removable battery and not some un-switched home-made one. I always solder my battery wires for reliability and performance reasons.

It's quite simple: 10% extra all-up weight means 10% more breaking is required and you get say 10% more wear. On the other hand, if you increase your average speed from 10 mph to 12 mph and keep the weight the same, you need 44% more breaking, if you increase it to 15 mph, you need 225% more...

Big Bear has a relatively powerful motor that's under speed control, which isn't a good recipe for controllable power. It's OK if you're heavy and/or need a lot of power most of the time, but if you want to ride with low power sometimes, you need current control, like you get from KT...

Juddering problem is nothing to do with the throttle, neither is slow pick-up. You have a problem between the controller and the motor. First, check that the moulded connector near the motor (if you have one) is in all the way to the line, not just in tight. Secondly, check that you haven't...

It's probably a standard battery, not specific to that bike, but I don't know how you expect us to recognise it from that cryptic photo. Why didn't you show the actual battery if that's what you want?

If you don't want to break open the control panel, I can't help any further.

Those readings show that your throttle is working correctly. can you remind us what the problem is that you're trying to solve?

The problem is that you have a controller with speed control, so you always get max power until you aproach the speed elative to each level in the LCD. What you need is a controller that uses current control (=power comtrol), where each level on the LCD relates to a different power level, which...

There are a few different versions of those motors. You don't need to scrap it. There is a way to take out the play. It's not a worn bearing, and even if it was, they're dead easy to relace and cost about £2 each. I can't understand what you broke, can you show some picyures?

You can set P5 to whatever value you want. It doesn't affect anything important. All it is is a damping coeffivient to stop the battery charge indicator going up and down with the voltage sag when you draw power. The bigger the value, the slower it responds. The values in the formula are only...

I've used standard rack batteries with disc brakes before. You only need to fabricate some sort of bracket to hold the struts out wide enough to clear the brake and be stiff enough to support the weight.

Let's get one thing clear, before you can buy a replacement 790, you must figure out whether it's analogue or digital. 4 wres in the cable would have made analogue certain, but 5 can be either. As your display is now scrap, you need to open it up to see if all the wires are connected to the...