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Whatever switches the bleed resistors probably forgot to switch off. I've seen that happen to a few batteries, including Bosch.

I've used them a few times without any problems. Remember that they're Chinese. When communicating, keep messages short, simple and to the point.

That's a bit like saying that somebody needs to look at why people become ill or die, then saying that you'd rather not have a life because there are too many problems with it.

Did you do the self-learning mode correctly. You switch off, connect the wires and switch on. You wait and watch until the wheel starts turning forward by itself, then switch off, disconnect the wires and everything should work. If the motor spins the wrong way during the procedure, you repeat...

That's correct for the brake voltage. The signal wire is only held up at 5v by a high value resistor. It's not a 5v supply. When the switch closes, it pulls it down to ground. The CPU sees a high signal when the brake is off and low when on.

All of them will work if you wire them correctly. Without identifying the cause of your problem, it's not possible to predict the outcome of your new purchase. The cause could be in your controller or wiring. An electrical item can't kill itself in the middle of the night when not being used...

you have something connected incorrectly then. Disconnect it , then measure the votage on the red wire.

What small opening? The openoing is the size of the motor. Look at the photo I just posted.

No it's the outer axial surface. Like this one:

The braking is independent of anything else. how many wires do the brakes have and what colours are they on each side of the connectors. Your PAS is correct. How do you know that those wires are self-learning wires?

As always, you've taken photos from every angle except the one you need to see the join. It looks like the join is about 3mm in the top outer axial surface before the spokes. heat up the hub between the spokes until iy's just too hot to touch to make it easier to unscrew the side-plate. There's...

can we see some photos? Didn't you have to file the dropouts to get the motor in? Is it a front motor?

1.2v is the voltage for the throttle signal wire. The red wire on the throttle should be 5v. can you check again?

You can always get a new motor from Bosch, which is around £800, then probably another couple of hundred for the dealer to take out the old, put in the new and program it.

You have to balance the three main characteristics, which are weight, convenience and security against the risk of your bike getting nicked. If you park your bike regularly in the same place, probably no lock will save you. If you park it at the gym or cinema, where people know you're going...

You have to find the reason for no communication first. Many things can cause it. You need a meter. Measure the voltage between the red and black wires on the throttle, PAS or hall sensor wires. Tell us what you get.

Error 10 means that the LCD isn't communicating with the controller for whatever reason. Have you been riding in the rain?

I don't recognise that LCD. I don't think I've seen it before. Can you look at the back to see if it has any writing on it or codes that might give us a clue? Also, zoom out and take a photo that shows the whole thing. How did the problem start? What were the circumstances?

Another happy ending - long sigh.

It's not as simple as that. 20" wheeled bikes with hub-motors can run very efficiently when climbing. For bikes with bigger wheels, there's more truth in what you're saying because most such bikes have hub-motors of around 260 rpm max speed, but a lower speed one would be fair competition, and a...