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Titatium is next to aluminium in the electr-chemical series ansd on the zinc and iron side, so there should be no problem to use ordinary zinc plated steell rivnuts. I would make that my plan A. Try to find rivnuts with the biggest flange on them, as they're the most secure to fit and take...

It's pretty well as simple as buy the new kit, unscrew and unthread the old stuff, fit the new stuff, solder the motor cable wires, and enjoy your new bike. 48v allows the motor to spin 30% faster, so you get more choice of maximum speed. The downside is a bit of loss of efficiency at low...

And what would you do with all the Scotts living in England and the English living in Scotland? A bit of a problem, eh!

Some people on this forum chucked the battery, LCD and stupid torque sensor and replaced with standard Chinese stuff, which is pretty straight forward if you can solder 11 wires, and it costs around £350 depending on options. the new system would make you master of your own destiny regarding...

To use the glue, push and hold the two ends together, then drizzle some of the glue over the joint. Activate it with the UV torch. Turn it over and do the same on the other side. Maybe then add a second layer to each side for extra strength. This stuff is like very hard and strong plastic...

It'll give you what you want and it's legal. That's all that matters.

Get the hight torque 250w version from Brighton Ebikes. https://www.brightonebikes.co.uk/store/p112/Bafang%C2%AE_BBS01B-ETM_36V_250W_motor_kit_%28DPC-18_display%29_with_Samsung_35E_cell_36V_14Ah_downtube_battery.html

I thought you were going to take it to Neal. If not send KirstenS a PM to see if he can look at it.

Correct.

Hall sensors are standard parts, cost pence and you can get them from anywhere. You can repair that board with UV glue, then scrape off the green stuff from the tracks either side of the break and solder wires to then. You can fix anything with this glue...

I don't know why more people with problems don't say where they live. You never know when someone who can help lives in your street. What the dealer said is completely false. there's no way in the world that water in the battery can harm a motor unless your controller is in the battery. If...

It was new - direct from the factory. It just had the extra added ingredient (cat ****). I'm very pleased that it's sorted. Now I can concentrate on solving my own problems, like where to get a decent 4k G-sync monitor from, which is the most frustrating problem I've tried to solve in years.

It could be that the control system is working OK, but your battery is knackered.

Did you read what I wrote? Am I wasting my time? You didn't respond to any of it!

How can anybody help if you hide where you are?

We don't know what you've got nor what you've done unless you show us.

The connector coming from the controller has two wires: black is ground and the other is the signal held at 5v. All you do is connect them to a brake switch either way round. You can test it by shorting the two wires, which is what the switch does.

In other words, they don't know how to test an ebike and diagnose the problem. They figure that if they change every single electrical item, it might come to life. It would be a shame if after all that it was the PAS and your £895 wouldn't fix it.

You need to show a picture of the label on the controller.

It won't be a scam. Instead, it maybe a misunderstanding between China and the German warehouse.