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The adapter is basically 2 pieces of thick aluminium tube with 6 mm holes for the bolts and held the right distance apart with a strip of aluminium. I saw a couple when I looked at Ebay. With post mount to post mount, you don't really need one. Just use a stack of my washers.

I never had a problem in Telford. With these things you should always write to your Councillor. They probably don't know what's going on.

Let's get one thing straight. That bike is totally unsuitable for electric conversion. To fit a front brake, you'd have to chuck the basket arrangement and/or fit new forks. Those forks don't look very standard either, so the chance of finding disc brake ones is going to be close to zero...

It's a standard hidden wire brake sensor (HWBS). You can put them anywhere on the cable you want. They're designed with one end to receive the outer cable and the other to go in a caable receiver, so if you put it in the middle of the cable, you need a female to female ferrule, which you should...

I have hollowtech cranks on all my electric bikes. How come I have left hand PAS on all of them then. Am I suffering from some sort of delusions?

How are you going to fit a rack? You can put thr PAS on the left side, which is dead easy.

I would like to help, but I have no idea what your problem is. Instead of telling us what you've had for breakfast, can you just describe the problem and how it started?

He might be a mechanic, but he knows nothing about electronics/electrics.

Most controllers have a shunt in them to measure current. You could easily use that rather than add another device to measure the current. There's normally a shunt in the battery's BMS that you could use too.

The controller needs about 4w even on standby. That could be enough to trip your BMS if it's faulty. You need to text tour BMS with an alternative load of some sort. Have you got any 36v lights?

Let's try and apply a bit of logic. 140mm is definitely to small. 160mm will be close one way or the other. 180mm will definitely give you clearance. I bet your front brake is 160mm, so borrow the disc off the front wheel. Put it on the motor with two screws and slide the caliper on to see how...

It says freewheel, but it is a cassette.

There's no 12mm washer on the axle closest to the motor, which is what I said you should do! What size rotor do you have?

Do a mosfet check: Disconnect the motor cable and battery from the controller. Measure the resistance (200k scale) between the red battery connection and each of the three phase wire connections, then repeat with the black battery wire. Each set of 3 readings should be the same as each other...

180mm is normally the minimum size rotor for a rear hub- motor, then you should always start your alignment from the left (brake) side. Your first task is to arrange washers and spacers to get the disc lined up with the centr of the caliper. For just about every motor I've fitted, that required...

I have one of those cassettes. The indexing doesn't quite match a Shimano shifter, so you might be better off getting a cassette that matches your derailleur/shifter.

You must use that nut. it screw onto the thread inside the freewheel, and it's what the anti-rotation washer is supposed to rest on.

I think for low power like that, you'd be better off with a hub-moor. That will be less complicate to fit. You only haveto fabricate an arrangement to clamp the axle and prevent it from rotating. You can then stick the battery where you want (where the original engine was) and maybe the...

It needs new batteries. You take the battery off the bike and unscrew the case. Inside are three standard SLA batteries that you can buy from anywhere. It's important that you get the type for electric vehicles, not standby batteries, which are cheaper. Take clear photos of the wiring and rire...

You can comfortably file or grind 3mm off the inboard face of the pedal arm to create more clearance.