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I wouldn't get either because they're not something you can fix yourself. You'd be better off getting something with a more mainstream system, like Bosch performance CX and fitting a dongle to derestrict it, if that's what you want, or better still, make your own. You could get something pretty...

You should drain down the 4.1v one to the average of the others rather than charge all the others up to it. A 12v bulb would probably do it. A 15w indicator bulb would drain at about 0.4A, so it should take about 10 hours, but check the voltage regularly to make sure.

Th connectors are a waste of time and a point of weakness. Get rid of them and solder the wires..

It's digital, not analogue. The switches are connected to a cpu in the LCD and give a yes or no signal to tell the cpu what you want to do. The cpu in the LCD processes that info, then communicates with the cpu in the controller to tell it to change the power. Some of the LED type control...

Take off the battery and disassemble the compartment at the bottom of the receiver, then you'll see what you have to do. All you need to do is wire in the controller kit to the two battery wires the right way round, and join the motor cable wires to the ones coming out of the motor. The rest of...

Dit you test the lead to confirm the short, or dos it blow the fuse as soon as you connect it on the one end only?

They probably need adjusting. It's easy to bend the derailleur in shipping or if you put it in the back of a car the wrong way up, which will nock the deraileur out of line. There are loads of Youtube vids on how to adjust.

Use an SS41 with a pull-up resistor.

All the plastic does is hold the magnets in the right positions. You can cut it, drill it, grind it, file it, or whatever you want until it fits as long as you don't touch the magnets. I'd cut off or grind down anything that stops it from fitting right, then epoxy it in place. Make sure you...

All three wire throttles work the same with the same three wires: 5v, red, ground black, and signal any colour. Rather than worry about which connectors are compatible and buy expensive throttles with the right one, cut the connectors off and join the wires (solder), which will be cheaper...

It can be done, but you'd have to change the controller and LCD and wire them in.

The wires are too tangled and hiding all the connectors. See post #2.

You can choose either of these kits depending on where you want to install the controller. I prefer the one with block connectors because it's easier to test when you install it. Other guys used the one with moulded connectors so that it could be installed in the same place as the present one...

The manufacturers specify the life of their cells with the number of charge cycles; however, that's at relatively low current. Assuming that your vape has the normal massive current, the cells won't give you anywhere near what the apecification is. You'll be OK doing life cycle tests at 80%...

If you want a throttle, I'd say that a hub motor would be better. You get a much smoother action and you don't have to worry about which gear you're in. With a crank motor, if you throttle in bottom gear, it's really jerky and tend to wheelie. If you try and start up in a high gear, you can...

A lithium cell pack will last longer if you only charge it to 80% AND keep it balanced. The problem is that with your ebike battery, you can't have both. The idea of charging to 80% is based on a study that Battery University did on individual lithium cells. It was done a long time ago and was...

Do you know the difference between a freehub and a freewheel? If your bike has a freehub and it's broken,it's not going to be easy to get a replacement, as it would be part of the motor. Freewheels would be replaceable and they come from DNP. UK stockists are rare. I used to buy some from DNP...

Which is why you use faster motors on all your other bikes. Their equivalent speed on a Brompton would be around 420 RPM, but there aren't many motors that spin that fast, though you'd be spot on if you ran your 328rpm one at 48v. Personally, I thought 328 rpm was about right for a Brompton...

Why do you want to charge to X% when the battery is designed to be charged to 100% and you get less power and range by not fully charging it, and you shorten the battery life. The Satiator is for batteries that don't use top balancing, but yours does.

You have some choices: 1. You can buy just the LCD control panel of the same type and hope that its software matches the controller, which it probably will, but might not. About £30. 2. Buy a new controller and LCD of the same type, try the LCD first, and if it doesn't work, swap the controller...