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Yes, on the motor side of the connector, not the battery. There's a capacitor right across those wires in the controller, which can stay charged for days in some cases, which is why, you can see the LCD flash on and off when you attempt to switch on when the battery isn't even connected. I...

I've been using a B67 for the last 6 years. It's OK, but probably not the solution for everyone. What I've found is that all saddles are OK once you get used to them. It's like playing guitar. At first, it's very painful to hold down the strings and your fingers get blisters on them, but after a...

Taking the battery off is not enough. You have to discharge the capacitors by shorting the two connections on the motor after removing the battery. I don't think the chance of it fixing your problem is high, but certainly my worth trying.

It seems to be doing it whether you're freewheeling or not, which means it must be coming from inside the motor or the motor is touching something..

The charger switches off when the whole battery reaches 41.6v or when the first of 10 cells reaches 4.2v. Using logic ant taking what you've said as true facts, your battery is way out of balance for whatever reason. The only thing you can now do to move forward is to open the case and measure...

It's a very common problem on bikes like that, and it's caused by lack of maintenance. Clean out the gap between the back of the freewheel and the motor. You can get long grass or any other debris wrapped around there, which causes friction. After that, get some oil down the back of the...

Isn't an actual complete new shifter going to be cheaper than that polymorph stuff?

The only thing I can suggest is to put a bridge across the key-switch and test the bike to see if it still does it. Until you've finished testing, remove the battery when you'd normally switch off. It won't do the battery any harm. If you have an LCD or LED display, that's good enough for...

Jeez, from an engineering point of view, that's terrible. The general conclusion is correct, but they've missed the point completely. All they did was measure the rolling resistance on a relatively inefficient tyre powered by a relatively inefficient motor system. They could have saved a lot of...

Well spotted Soundwave. I couldn't get a sense of scale from the photos.

There are two standard disc brake mounting points on bicycles. They are IS (side mount) and PM (post mount). Yours is PM. All PM adapters will have the correct spacing. If you want to check, PM mounting holes are 74mm apart. I don't know why these guys want to confuse you, when I already...

CCL has only 1440 version and Laptops direct has neither. I managed to snag a refurb Acer predator XB3 for £700 in the end, which is perfect. You can't get a new one for love nor money. My mate could only find a refurb Acer Nitro after 2 weeks of pulling his hair out. Just waiting for my new PC...

Is it touching the motor at the back? If so, you need a spacer on the thread.

They're all standard parts with standard fitment. You're only increasing by 20mm (radius).

This is for a 180mm disc. Select rear 180mm post mount. Obviously, if you fit a 160mm disc, you need a 160mm one...

You should measure the battery voltage with a meter immediately after you take it off the charger. 36v sounds very vague. What's its exact voltage?

It's very normal to get a ticking from the brake disc. Are you sure it's not that that you're hearing?

Se my post #2: https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/how-to-fit-a-pas-without-disassembling-the-bb.17154/

What about torque arms?

Cytronex is very over-priced for what it is. Avoid a front motor on a light bike like that. They can make the handling a bit weird. I'd get a Q100c (AKA AKM100C, QQ100c depending on supplier). Available from BMSbattery, Greenbikekit, Topbikekit, etc., then look for a lightish downtube battery...