Search results

The BPM is a brute of a motor compared to your average 250w hub-motor. A typical Chinese 250w one runs at 36v and 15 amps, That BPM runs at 48v with 30 amps which is nearly 3 times the power. The other important thing is that most standard Chinese ebikes have 260 rpm motors. That BPM is 201 rpm...

Let's take them one at a time: Weight distribution. What's the problem? It should be perfect with a rear motor! Daily use on steep terrain. Again this motor is perfect for that. How do you see a problem? Availability of rims. The one I showed you comes with a rim, which you can't see when on...

Did you see this: https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/tsdz2-pinion-gear-cover-friction.41376/

Which are????

For a bike like that, I'd fit a 201 rpm Bafang BPM hub-motor. It'll give a much more pleasant ride. https://bmsbattery.com/ebike/586-16221-bafang-bpm2-48v500w-rear-driving-e-bike-motor-wheel-ebike-kit.html#/213-rpm-201 S12S controller and LCD3 to go with it.

Before anything, check the connector that's near the motor. By now, it's probably a right mess unless you didn't use the bike much. 3 flashes is brake sensor, so try diconnecting them to see if the problem goes away.

The faster you go, the better it is for the motor, but might not be better for you. You'll see that the voltage drop at full throttle is a lot more when you're going slow compared with when going fast. Your SW900 is probably using the wrong value of the shunt or something like that to calculate...

Most of those that died were young and fit. Did you know that the WHO has advised not to vaccinate people under 16 years old, as the risk of the vaccine is higher than the risk from the virus? Check out what they say on their website. "The COVID-19 vaccines are safe for most people 18 years and...

Check the motor cable at both ends. First make sure that the connector near the motor is in all the way to the marked line, not just in tight, then see how it connects to the controller. If it has three bullet connectors make sure that they're fully in and tight. If loose, pull apart and crimp...

Your calculation is not correct for several reasons: Firstly, your battery voltage drops pretty rapidly initially, so the 71.4v is not realistic. You'd probably lose one or two volts before you could draw any meaningful power from it. Secondly, you get voltage sag. The battery voltage goes...

The important thing is that you can set the output to the correct charge output and current for your battery. Most batteries should be charged at around 0.2C, which for batteries in the range 10Ah to 15Ah would be 2 to 3 amps.

You know that 460 have died in the UK soon after having the vaccine (not from covid) and approx 1/4 million suffered injurious reactions?

The charger just needs to give a constant 42v (for 36v battery). The BMS in the battery does the rest.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32955156367.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.1.6c659bbfUob297&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.33416.213724.0&scm_id=1007.33416.213724.0&scm-url=1007.33416.213724.0&pvid=ec6800a8-ba9d-421c-aed5-088efa1721aa&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url...

Get some thin wires and strip back about 10mm each end. Put one end in the slot and slide in the battery. You can then test the voltage by probing the exposed ends of the wires.

You can buy a complete new cell-pack with BMS and charger on Ebay for about £100, so it's not worth messing about with your knackered one. It might be worth going up to 36v, which would give 50% more power and speed. 24v systems are normally gutless. If you want to do that, get a KT controller...

I've never had brake sensors on my bike, which has a throttle and KT controller. The only time I miss them is when turning very tight corners because the motor kicks in too soon. I could add a push-button cut-off switch instead, but it's not worth the effort considering the small inconvenience...

It's a standard Chinese bike with cheap but durable components. You should get years of service from it. It's easy and cheap to fix if anything goes wrong. The only thing that looks a bit odd is the pedal sensor. I'd need more detailed photos to comment on it.

Put your meter in the connector between the battery and controller while you attempt to switch on the LCD and see what happens to the voltage. If it collapses, either you have a short in the controller (blown mosfet) or a faulty connection between the battery and the connector.

You can't change from one to the other without changing the controller. I'm not sure what control system the Roodog uses now, but I know that they used to be rudimentary speed control systems. You also have to differentiate between controllers that use speed control and current control for the...