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Ok, that's just a conventional PAS. I thought there might be something in that weird plastic housing on the outside of the chainwheel.

Mandatory clothing and aparatus at events is more about liability than safety.

The basic argument is the same as staying at home substantially reduces the risk of getting run over by a bus, stabbed by a terrorist or catching a virus. Should it therefore be made compulsory to keep everyone in their homes. If the answer is yes, then you don't need cycle helmets. If no, it...

The motor transmits torque to the rear subframe mostly by the friction of the axle nuts and partly by the metal to metal contact in the slot in the drop-outs. It's irrelevant what the suspension in the subframe does. In theory, the friction in the axle nuts would be enough, but the torque is...

Complete waste on an ebike. You'll never use the lower 2 gears.

It comes out of the motor controller, which is at the other end of the motor cable. If they're already disconnected and your bike is restricted, connect them.

My reply was to Spitz, not you. I can see your problem: High power in a small back wheel with a speed control controller. Spitz wouldn't get that with a 250w Cyclotricity kit.

I thought Cyclotricity used KT controllers. Have you got your set to speed control instead of current control?

When converting a bike, you'd expect to years of happy and convenient cycling from it. It doesn't make sense to compromise all that by trying to save 10 minutes on installation, nor by fitting sub-optimal parts.

You use a wheel magnet speed sensor. If it's a three wire one, you supply it with 5v from any of the 5v wires on the PAS, throttle or hall connectors , and you can pick up a ground there too or use any ground, then you connect the signal wire to the white wire that's in the motor hall...

You'd have to show us the wiring to your controller if you want recommendations. Nearly any controller will work, some are better than others. Just about all of them require some wiring and/or soldering.

That's the speed sensor. The pedal sensor is in or behind the chain-wheel. Conventional chinese ones have a disc with magnets in and a sensor clamped by the bottom bracket. I'd be interested to see what you have.

You didn't explain what your problem is with the PAS. You can fit one to any bike. What's the problem? Whether you it PAS and/or throttle, it makes no difference to the location of the motor. Rear is always best.

I have to call ball cox on that! I've been building, riding and fixing electric bikes for more than 10 years. I've never heard of a bike "kicking" apart from my 5.5kw one with thin tyres. A 250w Cyclotricity kit hasn't got the power to kick itself, let alone a bike.

Doesn't sound like a battery problem to me. Did you check that your motor connector was in all the way to the line? Also, it's worth checking the battery connectors where it folds. They easily get bent so that they don't make good contact.

Always fit a rear motor if you can. It's safer, gives better handling, better traction and quieter. I don't understand your problem with the BB. It has no relevance to the type of motor. Can you explain?

Make sure that your new motor has the correct speed for a 20" wheel. 400 rpm will get you to 23 mph. Also, don't forget about the tyre. You'll need a fairly wide one with plenty of grip becaause a 1000w motor will make aa lot of torque in a 20" wheel.

A front motor would be fine in the rear of that scooter. That guy probably didn't understand what it was. Maybe he thought you needed the threaded boss for a sprocket.

It's best to show a picture of your actual BMS because there are several complications in the way that you connect the different types.

What's CDC got to do with it. They're just a bunch of foreign partisan hacks, who change their minds on a daily basis depending which way the wind is blowing: Don't wear masks, wear masks, wear two masks; don't vaccinate any children, vaccinate 12 years old, etc.The WHO provide official guidance...