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All e-bikes can be derestricted. The Mirider has a KT controller. The Mirider guy said that it had special software init. If that software locks the speed limit, yo can replace the LCD with one that isn't locked.

Yes, you need the wheel speed sensor, otherwise the LCD will show the wrong speed, which will be based on motor RPM, which will be too high and might shut down the system. If you disable that in the settings, the controller might go to sleep after 5 minutes unless you have a setting to switch...

The parameters are the same across all KT LCDs, so you can download the instructions for any of them to see what the C and P parameters do. You'd have been better with 48v. 52v can work, but some people get problems. Also, the LVC will be incorrect. You can turn it up a bit in the settings, but...

How do you know that that voltage is measured right? Did you validate your meter in any way? Did you measure the voltage on the charger jack? You should charge with the bike switched off otherwise the charger will be providing the power for it, which is why you see it come back on.

Those sensors do give problems especially if you ride a in all weathers, when they get jammed by grime and the inner piece starts to slip on the shift. The important connector is the motor connector. Did you check the line?

It's not going to work very well unless you only use a throttle, which is a pain. That controller uses speed control for the PAS, which gives a different crank speed for each level. For a crank motor motor, you need current (power control), which you get with a controller from KT.

Most of us prefer KT controllers, which you can find on Ebay, Aliexpress, Amazon and from our favourite Chinese resellers, like Greenbikekit, Topbikekit, PSWPower and BMSBattery. You have to learn what they look like because most people don't list them as being KT.

If it's a normal cadence sensor, it sits behind the chainwheel. You'll see a magnet disc and a fixed sensor. The disc can be twizzled into the right position. It needs to be a nice even 1mm gap from the sensor. It's might have been knocked out ofposition when you got the bike out of the box...

For a normal fitting on a square taper crank, the 8 and 10 magnet discs work very well and are the most compatible with all controllers. The reason I say to avoid 12 magnet ones is because a lot of people come on this forum saying that they can't get them to work. We don't know what they've done...

They only cost £15. If you get stuck, you can always buy a new one. If the connectrs don't match, cut them off and join the wires...

You can replace the chainwheel with a conventional one if there's not enough room for the PAS.

There are many versions of that bike. It might help to let us know which one you have.

If the display came with the controller, it should be OK. Most of those displays have a setting for the voltage, so make sure you download the manual.

You can use a staandard cycle computer. Just put a block of something under the sensor to hold it off. Polystyrene, an old rubber, a piece of wood or anything like that can be cut to the right size block. If that still doesn't come close enough, you can stick another magnet on the one on the...

They'll be for communication. Just to be sure that the conversion would still work, measure the voltage on the battery terminals that connect to the power wires to check that you have the the full voltage.

See how you get on. You have nothing to lose, but for one cell to be higher than the rest, something is probably wrong, like a broken weld.

The other wires are for the lcd and the torque sensor, both of which will be chucked, as they won't be needed with the new controller, which will have its own pedal sensor and LCD. You can fit a throttle too.

The electric bike dealers typically only support the brands they sell, so unless you get a bike with standard Chinese parts, Bosch or Shimano, the chance of finding someone to fix it is pretty well zero unless you bought your bike locally, and the local dealer is still in business and they still...

You can probaly change the gearing if it's too loww. If you want help with that, count the teeth on the top gear (smallest cog) and the chainwheel.

There's a thing called a throttle that deals with that! Contrary to popular belief, they are perfectly legal as long as you have it set to non-zero start, which KT controllers have in the setting P4=1.