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The black GND /Ground wire is broken, it needs to be resoldered to the black end coming out of the main trunk cable. In #3 you can see the broken end , you may have to strip the black outer sheath back to expose a bit more of the Gnd to solder to or if the trunk supply cable is long enough cut...

We need pics and an idea of the control system used. 03 error differs depending on the system, it can be phase, hall , PAS or even brake. Telling us 03 on it's own doesn't help much.

Tsdz2 has too much air space/gaps so no escape for heat to the outer metal casing as a heat sink. Ideally if heat was an issue then the heat mods need to be done to fill in the empty gaps and fill the spaces, air being a poor convector of heat so thermal heat pads and sthin copper plates can...

Likely as usual going to fast .

Looks like Rick is in the USA so should find something suitable.

The longest I leave my bike locked is 20/25mins when I do a food shop, I use two heavy duty D locks to secure the wheels/frame to the bike stand hoop.

It only take seconds even in supposed safe locations.

I nip it up as tight by handa possible first with the C spanner then give it the hammer treatment, gives another good 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Loving the tsdz far far better then the BBS01 I had.

Drill the center out .

Any cable will be a weak link and not insurance rated so a waste of time using , a pair of pliers side cutters would eventually chew threw a cable. Personally for a decent D lock I don't think one will get better value then an OnGuard lock with 18mm shackle.

Do the controller mosfet test via the three phase , all you need is a meter . Bike doesn't need power for the test all one is doing is checking the ohms or lack of them. From the pic the phase contacts look very accessible to probe. BlownMosfets.cdr (ebikes.ca) If you have a blown mosfet it...

The Tsdz lock/ nut is much the same as the BBS, I use the C spanner and used a couple of whacks with a hammer to torque it up. Not creaked or come undone at all.

I bought a job lot on aliexpress well before brexit so they were dirt cheap, BS01 Shimano type which are pretty much foundon alot of bikes that use obviously entry shimano line brakes as well as some tektro and clarkes brakes . Can't complain at the braking performance and have no issues with...

Yep , simple process of equalising voltages before connecting , charge to near same voltage . I have had no issue with 0.25v difference .

Surprising how visually one can lose sight of these once line of sight is lost or are tree top hugging. Still have my lighter then air with basket stored in my garage , hasn't seen light of day for 24 years.

He's fallen in to the mid drive trap of believing all drive components need changing every 100 miles or once a week :p . One thing us proper hub drive users don't think of until at least 5k of riding and then it is only the brake pads that need changing, as it is said no one or few opt to...

Hydraulic disc all day long on any bike, my pad bite just gets better all the time having bed in nicely . Cheap china pads at a £1 a go and no issues with their performance , only another dozen or so pairs to get thru so should last me for ever.

Nice drop outs one can easily take 4mm out of them to sit the axle lower, filing needs to be good and tight though then add a one piece custom torque arm to the LHS .

Needs a chain whip tool to remove ACW doing so, firmly holding the wheel. Freewheel is a screw on gear. If cable is damaged tight to the hollow axle then repair needs to be not a repair but complete motor cable renewel so means opening the hub to try and get the cable thru, not an easy job but...