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The only real way of knowing where the issue is , is by fault finding . Willy nilly buying or swapping out parts works out not only expensive but also may not prove to be the correct option.

Well done, nice to learn a new skill. Good you found out the faulty connection and closed up the gap, next time if there is one you will know where to look straight away.

When I had mine I used 9 levels , 5 set for low torque higher spd road use and 4 set for high torque lower spd off road. Today if I had one I think I would simply opt for 5 PAS levels , but no need with the TSDZ2 it covers all my use in eco mode.

One has to read the settings of the good one and then copy them so that the other concurs.

To check that the sensor is seeing 5v use a meter and probe the PAS connector , one should see near 5v between gnd/blk & 5v /red. If you don't see 5v then the PAS output is faulty at the controller or at the connector. Controller is Lishui brand , they aren't OEM .

I haven't seen a sensor like that before so one assumes a magnet is meant to pass by the red marked sensor , so looks like there is a magnet disc missing . I can't see that it is an all in one , one piece sensor head as the shape is wrong. With the motor wheel off the ground and PAS 1...

One doesn't neccessarily ned to take out 4mm , it was just a comment I made looking at your pics. The depth you need depends on if one is fitting the tabbed washers and wanting the tab to sit in the drop out.

Read #11 & #14.

A meter check is simple it rules in or rules out a fuse issue and confirms whether voltage is reaching the discharge on a generic battery. One assumes the batteyr has a switch and it is being turned on. My PSWPower battery has a hidden rocker switch under the carry handle , it is easy to...

My swizzbee has a panny 9p & HE2 6p battery in parallel, max current draw is 210a or approx. 140a continuous. 39a is the most I have seen from the ammeter reading.

My P42a info was a bit on the low /conservative side. Continuous more like 40a & 60a bursts. With 6p one can easily ask for 110 -120a . The advantage of small batteries using high current cells is little or no stress when using higher current , drawing 20a is only taxing the cell by 33%.

Making your own gives you more choice of the cell you want to use and for bespoke batteries. Over heating isn't an issue with a decent arduino spot welder, the contact is minimal in time /miliseconds. Soldering cells is where one will over heat them as the heat applied is far more prolonged...

If no walk assist then one would expect something more terminal , so likely a controller issue or motor hall issue. Fault finding is the only way forward. The 5v rail can fail, It will need a meter to check voltages and access to the wiring via connectors to probe the wiring fro testing ...

My LG hg2 drinks bottle battery is <1.45kg , layout is 12s 2p . 6ah/264wh, 25a continuous / 40a for short bursts and good for up to 30 miles or more for flat terrain riding in PAS 1 . A battery can be anything you want it to be depending on the chosen cells and layout. My other slim...

Did you try the walk assist ?

If still not working, one next has to take a look at the PAS set up it is the two piece PAS sensor and magnet disc set up seen in your pic ( The magnet disc can be seen between the chain wheel). Turn the bike upside down and check sensor and disc gap is approx. 1mm 2mm or less and the...

Take a reading from the outer marked +/-, it doesn't matter which way around the meter probes go in. In fact do the test by swapping the probes over to learn how correct polarity works, when the polarity reading is wrong you will see the voltage reading with a minus in front of it.

Small batteries have a place on EAPC's , it simply depends on the use , terrain and power one needs.

38v is often for longer term storage when not in use but typically was more associated with lipo cells.

We usually have an answer for most issues.