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The disc has to fot on the sq part of the axle and then it has to be as close as poss to the sensor head , typically about 0.5mm - 2mm.

It looks like a hidden fine thread face plate, one has to unscrew the face plate from the RHS using a special tool or one can easily make up a leverage tool to open the hub. We do though need to see a better clearer side pic (RHS) of the hub with the wheel removed.

Numbers and markings won't help much with any bearing issues. Typically if it is a bearing making a noise or failing then it is the LHS one , to isolate any noise then one has to remove the wheel and all it's fittings to leave but a bare hub in a rim. Then one may be able to feel any roughness...

Look on ebay for saddle clips , plastic, copper, steel . One can select material and size to suit ones needs.

The thing with the v12 is it is encased so muck and grime can get inside to clog things up, the generic two piece pas can't . Sometimes one may want to wipe /clean the outer sfc but tbh in eight odd years I have only wiped /cleaned my magnet disc on my various bikes once or twice.

Probably one sure way to blow the controller or motor Halls.

Tbh reviews of estimated range are a bit useless as there are to many variables , each use is differently in regards to power, fitness, terrain and conditions . I can quite easily get 34 or more miles from my LG hg2 6ah 44v bottle battery, but the info is of not much use to any one else...

The sensor sits on the seat tube (Blue mark). For testing one doesn't need to physically fix anything in place. To test the PAS one doesn't need to fit it , simply connect the two ends up (Julet to Julet). If the Julet wiring is in sync then the PAS should work . Hold the sensor in one hand...

For 100% compatibility, Wisper for replacements.

The sensor I linked to doesn't need any removal of BB or cranks to fit . The senor simply fits on to the seat tube via cable ties and the magnet disc snaps on over the crank axle and is held by the outer metal ring retainer. Before you fit anything test the PAS before fitting. Connect the...

It is also known as the the bottom bracket , the casing /shell as I call it accepts the BB cartridge which can have internal or external bearings .

One won't now until one connects and tries it.

One good reason not to buy any app applied EAPC , digital connections and updates are unreliable .

The sensor type you posted needs the sensor ring to fit behind/between the bottom bracket and and the frame BB shell/casing . One would need to undo the BB to do so. The sensor I have posted is a simple one that cable ties to the bottom of the seat post and pivots so one can adjust the sensor...

A julet should likely be wired correctly though one can't 100% sure . As d8veh says if it doesn't work then simply cut off the connectors and join wires directly. 3-Pin Electric Bikes Bafang PAS 12 Magnet Pedal Assist Speed Sensor E-bike Clips | eBay

Look on ebay for 36v softpack battery, one may be able to find one that fits . You will of course make sure you measure the size correctly . You don't give us much at all to go on , no dimensions or even a pic of the battery or inside the case/bag.

There is only one thing I would check on your bike, and that is the motor cable that exits the rear hub motor. Make sure the axle slot/cable exit is on the underside and the motor cable does exit out from the underside and forms a small drip loop . Often we see with cheaper catalogue...

It is 00012 , you showed us a pic in #15.

Is there any writing/name on the black part ? It may or may not say Julet. Two piece PAS is seperate magnet disc and sensor head , they are more reliable.

P07 is motor speed pulse so is motor magnets used to calculate speed reading, 1 is correct. PAS magnet count is P13.