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Lube the cable outer and the inner shaft with a very slippery almost friction free lube, the best lube will likely be in your fridge . Simple spread or butter will aid in pulling the cable through.

My speed reading goes up and down with PAS use and goes down to zero when not peddalling and or braking no matter the setting with my G370 hub. Wattage figure will go down when braking as power is simply not being applied as it will also do when you hit back EMF or near the cut off speed.

A PAS wll already be fitted so if it doesn't work then the easiest option without removing cranks etc,etc is to simply cut off both connectors then solder and shrink the joint. Black to Black , Red to Red or Brown and the last colour pair will be signal and any colour chosen to be used. As...

All you need to do is make sure the wire order matches that of the controller connection. If not chnage the pin outs in the controller connector or simply cut both connectors off and solder/shrink the wire order correctly. Magnet gap 5mm - 10mm max.

How did you get on with the GSM ? My two were complete failures and between the two I had failed to complete a total of 300 miles.

Speak to Woosh first, they willikely tell you the battery case designation.

P1 46 or 48 for the front DD hub, then one should see better speed. Rear hub is geared so P1 84 - 100 on will have to play around with the P1 value and use a GPS to figure the correct speed corrolation with the lcd readout.

One needs a pic or two to try and id the rack and battery case type, one rack battery to another can be quite different so not a universal fit. Sometimes it is easier to resort to buying a new rack with battery and simply swap it out, alternatively one may be able to buy a battery of the same...

8 or 10 pole would be my choice.

The first two are V12L type PAS sensors and have nothing to do with speed, you need the last option.

I never had any issues with my KT S06S controller using the integral light supply, with a basic rear 36v lamp and a front lamp with integral horn switched via the the added in horn /light switch.

P1 affects the motor speed (geared hub) if it isn't set correctly for the motors reduction gearing , for a DD hub it has no reduction gearing the P1 value is also critical. Go into the settings and see what the P1 value is set to.

I use the basic shimano clipons with a narrow platform on oneside for day to day flat sole shoes , never had an issue with unclipping . As Andy has mentioned one simply adjusts tension with an Allen key so one can easily unclip.

Walk assist is usually enabled on most bikes , if no dedicated WA button or pad then holding the down/- pad/button will operate WA.

Do what most of us do , learn to do it your self . All the jobs you want done are easypeasy , it's not like you want a wheel build.

You have to set P1 value correctly.

Geared .

Exactly he had the conversion done there but likely they are to dear ?

Direct drive 1kw motor aka a dinner plate, likel weighs in at 5.3kg. Wouldn't want that in those forks the drops out will snap for sure and face plant you.

Folks read too much nonsense about hubs simply because the articles don't use the best control systems or use the correct voltage or applied current.