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To help avoid such an issue, after re-fitting the Q/R, place the bike bqck upright, release the Q/R skewer and let the weight of the bike help 'seat' the wheel into the dropouts nd then re-tighten the skewer. If this isn't working for you, I'm wondering if your have a Q/R wheel (that only...

So I was indeed looking to add the truing stand to my Xmas wish list but whilst trawling Amazon I saw the one below at just over £20 which looks the same as those from other Amazon sellers at around £45-£50 so I've ordered one and if it's 'pants' then back it'll go.

.... did anyone mention tubeless? There are those who swear by them but the only conversation I hear amongst my cycling chums, is about the problems they encounter.

CO2 has it's place of course especially if riding in a group and a quick fix is desirable. I'd still advise to carry a pump as I've been with riders who have used their two cartridges and got a 3rd puncture.

In addition to what's been covered - my penny's-worth Carry at least one spare tube (a new one or one that has been repaired and tested). If it's a brand new tube with a Presta valve, ensure the valve is screwed in tight (there are tools for this but long-nose pliers are good too) because if it...

Ooh, that West Biking truing stand looks good value if it's any good that is and much cheaper than Ali Express too - maybe another item on my Crimbo list? On the other hand, I only build or true a wheel a couple of times a year and I currently use a home made truing stand the design of which I...

Why not use the bike frame that you have - just turn the bike upside down and remove the existing wheel - or am I missing something here?

I'm guessing you've never done any serious wheel building or re-truing as using such spanners would drive you insane - their shape/design would make the task endlessly long/labourious/tedious - just saying. The Spokey and Topeak spoke key designs (and there are many other brands) whereby you...

+2 for Spokey (different colours for different sizes) although I can see the advanages of the 'diagonal' type from Topeak which I've now added to my Crimbo list.

I found a very useful article by Grin technologies about some of the different types of PAS sensors there were at the time of the article (LINK and last updated 2022) and no doubt there are others that have come along in the meantime. Interestingly the Grin article didn't say anything specific...

I understand 'the love' folks have of rear vs front hubs but I've a number of objectives here: Minimal cost - the front hub is a 2nd hand Swytch bike motor bought for the princely sum of £58 in a 700c wheel, so a bargain and I've ridden a Swytch bike and am happy with the motor's performance...

After 2 years being very satisfied with my TSDZ2 machines I am out of curiosity in the process of doing my first (front) hub conversion to see what ebike life is 'on the other side' of the argument (hub vs mid drive). So only some of the items are with me as I await the slow boat from China but...

@Gbob, may I ask where you got the TSDZ2 compatible EKD01 display from please?

If someone is considering connecting two batteries in parallel via schotky diodes, maybe take a look at the benifits of 'ideal diodes' first as their voltage drop and power consumption is better that schotky diodes. This link HERE, one of many, gives an insight into this. I'm like some others...

So if I file out my 9mm dropouts (which are indeed on a bike with Q/R wheels) to 10mm so I can fit the hub motor, but then subsequently want to use the motor else where and refit the Q/R wheel back into the filed out 10mm dropouts, is that going to be problematic in any way? Thanks.

Thanks for both contributions - I'll stick to the tried and tested system of filing the dropouts as (a) as @saneagle says, the axle thickness on the motor cable exit side as already quite thin on the flats and (b) the practicalities of holding the wheel/axle in a suitable position for...

As we all know the flats on many if not all hub motors are 10mm across the flats whilst drop-outs are 9mm and therefore the drop-outs need widening by filing So my latest project is to fit an Aikema 100sx (courtesy of a redundant Swytch bike kit) likely across more than one bike and therefore my...

Thanks for those amperage figures @Nealh - I'm undecided on what (KT sinewave) controller amperage to go for and was looking at lower figures than that. This kit will be on one of my lighter bikes and I anticipate only needing a small amount of power (I ride my TSDZ2 almost exclusively in ECO...

For those whose bikes have internal geared hubs maybe? Well, over the next couple of months I'm about to find out about a front hub motor in that I've just acquired a used Swytch front wheel/hub motor (an AKM 100SX). As the motor is built into a 700c wheel at the moment I'll be trying it on...