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8 speed? That depends on how many gears your shifters are indexed for (or whether they do friction mode) - your cassette is 7 speed so tell us more. Your derailleur spec will say something like Max. teeth large sprocket 36, Total Capacity 45. Subtract the range of your chainrings (52-28=24?)...

Maybe that steep slope above 4.1V is unique to the 30Q cell, that might account for it losing 3% while other cells lose nearer 10%. https://www.powerstream.com/lithium-ion-charge-voltage.htm

Works for me. You can just see the buttons alongside the display on the far side of the mounting bracket. I've ape arms but the buttons would probably fit on the stem too.

Who said that? "Sounds over complicated" - fair enough it's a thread summary, sorry I missed the bit about live connectors. A combiner's simpler than a controller and if it fails you can connect either battery around it and carry on. Description of sorts here...

Good testing. To recap what's been said up-thread, given that BMS malfunctions aren't uncommon the procedure to link up is: charge both swap chargers and top up both measure difference (because BMSs can differ) switch off both BMS modules fit Y lead working upstream (in case of isolation...

Agreed, and reading between the lines Bikes4two might have a dual port BMS on his first battery. But IF both batteries were known to be common charge/discharge port, should it then be OK to charge them in parallel, hypothetically? I'm unsure what puts a common port into charge mode. I imagine...

A diode pack certainly isn't essential but it would be cheap, simple and safe, it would address your remaining questions and suit your application. Just mount it in fresh air for an easy life. With a Y cable you can only join up if the measured Vs are close... skip all that fuss :)

That universal joint steering looks very useful - is the Easy Rider the only production bicycle to have it? Van Raam list a lot of UK dealers. Anyway, some design inspiration perhaps... https://www.recumbent.news/2023/06/01/breaking-news-hp-velotechnik-introduced-new-delta-trike

I use abs project boxes and locking speakon connectors with a 20A controller, although they're not rated for high current so I'd look for well under 0.5V between batteries. If one cell loses capacity early to 80%, with 2P the other cell will 'hold it up' i.e. the battery's OK from full to 10%...

I'm glad they worked out OK but I couldn't find the street address on the website, that seemed iffy and so did the 2 year warranty (see below). How do you tell when it's safe to take a punt? https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/07853493/officers...

Can the trike accept the motor yet? It needs to be under load to see clearly how it behaves, because of the torque controller. The way the motor responds off-load to the torque sensor and PAS sounds as though it's all working just fine, potentially. In detail what do we know about the system...

When I stopped pedalling it would run on for maybe half a second - useful for hill starts etc. The constant motor speeds (and TS) suggest it's a current controller. When you stall the motor (by braking) the current should stay the same, no sweat, until you stop pedalling.

No power there might be normal with low side switching.

Can't swear to it but as I recall my Evo II used to assist smoothly even with slow pedalling, which would need a fairly long time constant. If the system's evening out the power delivery when the rider ghost pedals isn't that a good thing?

They do look indispensable like locking brake levers, and ideal on a train. I was fretting about stems being fit-once parts and easily over-torqued, good to know it's withstood good use.

Do the battery's charge indicator LEDs include a WakeUp or On/Off button like on mine or are those rare?

Neat. How long did building it take? Which controllers work well with 12s without the cutoff voltages interfering?

It turns out H strips are a thing: from here: https://www.electricbike.com/introduction-battery-design-2

A couple of questions but I've only used screw top NMC cells so be gentle :) The P currents are much smaller than S currents. Imagine a 10S2P build. With weld penetration being an issue why are S and double P strips used forming a #, why not a single P strip forming an H, giving a single...

I read once that the spot welds are arranged around the button top to avoid a heat sensitive feature under the centre of the button. Maybe it was about older battery tech? But if that's the case the solder connections should be better off-centre too and could be done before welding.