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Sodium/mositure ingress is one sure way to killa battery let alone other bike parts.

Great result , it is surprising how many of these issues we see from time to time. One can negate removing the wheel for punctures by removing one side of the tyre to access the tube for a repair or one can try a Gaddi tube .

Not going to like the whip slashed buttock if that friction drive chain lets go. I can feel the pain already before it does let go.

Tbh bike conversions using exsisting bottle rivnuts aren't designed to take heavy 3.5kg + batteries , the issue is vibrations and the sideways movement of the battery mass. Extra strapping is the way to go to make sure of a nicely securing the battery on a bikenot designed for one.

Yes with the UPP do make sure it is properly secured , there have been issues in the past with battery build quality . I have used a Wolftooth B- Rad mount base for down tube batteries, but tbh any heavy battery on a down tube fixing needs extra strapping support to prevent sideways wobble...

Ensure P2 /1 is set for current control. C1 PAS set up will be value 5 ,6 or 7, one will have to see which works the best.

As d8veh has said do make sure the motor Julet connection is 100% pushed to the hilt where the lateral embossed line is , sometimes even 1mm is enough to ensure connection is intimttent and cause the rough running sound.

List your P & C's so we can see the current set up. Which Yose hub do you have , Akm 95 ? If it is the AKM 95 then the P1 needs to be set for about 160 for correct running. C2 is you phase sequence option, value 0 always works straight out of the box for all my hubs but you may have to try...

Tasco battery is 30a rated so 20/22a controller is fine , it all boils down to the hub used . In most cases one would be a bit conservative and limit current to 17/18a which is plenty of power at 48v. At 18a 48a will produce approx. 650w of power to the motor.

If not bothered by the 250w limit then AKM-128CST 48V500W Rear Driving Hub Motor Cassette motor For ebike [AKM 128CST 48V500W motor] - $116.25 : Zen Cart!, The Art of E-commerce (topbikekit.com) Looks the same and is visually smaller then most 250w hubs.

That Bafang kit has a std 15a max rated controller. For the tandem I would opt for a KT T09S 22a controller , 48v battery and AKM hub. All KT controllers have the option to reduce current /amps out put so no need to worry about the 22a max rating as one can reduce to 11a max or anywhere between...

For my penneth worth , if one wants to be able to ride above the cut off speed easier (legally) then one needs a drive with a high internal gearing ratio and not one of the more common 5.1 gearing hub drives . For a higher gear ratio then either a Bafang G370 hub or an AKM (Aikema ) hub...

If one wants a system that has fast PAS pick up with little delay then opt for a KT controller , KT also has instant stop with no noticable run on from PAS. Take it from those of us that use them all the time from many years of use and experience , for the relative cheap cost of a no OEM...

I would second a look at the Wisper brand EAPC, hub drive or mid drive, cross bar or step thru. The bikes are well regarded and built with very good CS , the CEO David Miall of AMPS who own the brand often posts on the forum esp regarding Wisper owner issues.

Sadly many see a nice bike or are partly brained washed by reviews (very biased) , dealers (also biased) and online influencers who promote expensive looking EAPC's with mid drive or even hub drives which have no need for fancy locked in electrics Unfortunately those not in the know or...

Before trying to fault find with no idea why or what to look for, one must try and pin down the fault area. First carry out a mosfet test to see if any are faulty, if they aren't then one must test for Hall sensor failure.

Battery life depends on how they are specced to cope with the controller max discharge rating and the cells used. I have a pair of Woosh Dolphin cased Sam 29E's both coming up to 10 years old and both still work well drawing approx. 4 - 5 a, they are no longer used in EAPC use but provide...

One doesn't have to regimentally let the battery SOC go down to 35v before charging, 38 - 39v is ok to charge battery to full again simply because the charge time is much shorter . Charge depending on how you use the bike , always full charge before a longish ride where going down to 34/35v...

Typically the go to shop is topbikekit or their store on AliExpress and of course there are many other sellers on AliExp.

A EAPC can't be illegal if the thumb push/ start control can't propel the bike from a standing start , the law states it must be propelled by pedalling. Nearly all EAPC's have 6kmh walk assist that doesn't require pedalling. The law states that a EAPC must be propelled by pedalling .