Search results

30kg bikes again as the norm, one reason why lion was introduced to save some weight.

As a tutorial Mr H , I think it would be good to carry out the repair as it may be of interest to others such as Chris M. It isn't often we get out hands on such a battery where we have carte blanche to do with it as we wish, one assumes this is the case with this one !

For safety one would cut thick card to the other exposed cell buss's and securely tape that card in place to prevent any accidental shorting and just leave the exposed buss of the five cells to be removed. Partially treat the pack repair as a new build sans BMS so one has no wiring in the...

This thread will be useful to Chris Maluszynski as it was also much what he was thinking of . Want to learn to restore batteries. Where to start? | Pedelecs - Electric Bike Community One has to weigh up the cell age factor and config of cells to remove . Also whether one has similar aged...

One can then be 100% sure the wire sequence is correct then.

One can carefully mark the cell shape exactly on the buss , then mark three straight line cuts and dremmel thru the buss keeping to the 0v side by 1mm or 2mm. Not for d8veh as he knows what to do . A visual for others to show where to approx. to make the cuts along the tops of the dead cells...

Those laser cut buss's are or can be a real bugger to pry off , then one has to cut the cell holder to remove the cells as each side is moulded as one single unit .

What type of connection is used for the PAS ? Moulded yellow type or sm block ?

Yes , it means the hub has an internal speed sensor so a an external on eisn't needed . If the speed registered seems within normal the normal range 0 -15.5mph/25kmh then value 1 is fine .

Have you tried P14 ? As the 0 value listed is wrong and would mean the current is set for 0 power output, however as the throttle works it may not be the case.

The KT is a bit more dearer and works better imv , I would never fit ot advise fitting a brainpower over a KT.

Had a look at your controller pic attachment, it shows the motor phase/Hall connection. Though the two parts align to the arrows they look to be 1.5mm - 2mm shy of being fully pushed home, this small amount can make a difference in the phase /Hall wire connection.

The main battery connection from controller to battery shouldn't be affected however it is worth checking the bullet connections and fractionally crimping up the female bullet to ensure a solid connection. Like wise do the same for the three phase wire bullets Blue/Green & Yellow if used...

Typically with those basic speed control bikes a lot of folks complain of the harsh abrupt initial push in the back that can take them unawares.

P14 is set to controller current 0, it should have a current/power rating value. 12 -15a is typical so use one of those values. 12 is usually the default setting.

Is the PAS installed correctly ? Try back pedal to see if it works. Try P19/1 ? 9 levels of PAS is really too many, change P09 to mode1 for 5 levels.

Being frank , Halfords or just any LBS isn't an ideal place to have work undertaken.

Tbh it needs a competant diyer/experienced forum member to look at your bike and the same to carry out a control system conversion. I carried out such an upgrade this spring to a very similar type bike and the transfomation was damn good. Parts are approx £70 - £90.

Powerloss if the display goes blank is simply a power supply issue. Two places to look to start with regarding power and the bike running. 1. Front hub, check the motor cable connector join near the motor. Make sure the two parts are firmly pushed together, one part has a raised line across it...

From my point of view considering your mobility issues, the pendleton speed controller ( though very primitive basic ) should give you a pretty easy ride as it typically provides max power all the time until thr speed limit of each PAS level is reached. The freewheel on that bike is known to...