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Forced to take holiday in February and faced with 8 days of forecast bright or sunny, I had no option but to take to the road today. Only 5 days before back at work so a shortish trip, and though welcome, the sun is still too low in the sky for solar antics, so I have brought my two new but old...

Take pictures closeup of the cable and axle washers and spacers before anyone fiddles! Marking/labelling them would be even better.

I wouldn't want to go back to no ABS on cars, but learning the 'feel' of the brakes and available grip is such a fundamental cycling skill, especially off road. I'll manage without!

Have a look at https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/ep8-ep800/SG-C7000-5D.html and if it is that one, it takes a 'standard for shimano' centre lock brake disc. You need a special tool for the locknut, usually an externally splined one, same I think as the spline pattern on...

When I'm commuting 5 miles round trip each day, I wait until under half battery before charging. Every 2 or 3 days it works out. Batteries do not like sitting full, so a bit of forward planning helps. If you know you need full range the next day then charge, otherwise maybe let it go a bit lower...

Wheel size?

The bigger the battery in Ah the less stressed the individual cells will be. If weight is not hugely critical then two relatively ordinary 20Ah packs in parallel might do a good job. That opens the way to e.g. Yosepower. Precautions needed when making the parallel connection, and when charging...

Much better!

I would be tempted to give the battery better support. Unless you know the detail of what is inside the blue shrinkwrap, best to assume not much cell support, in which case it may be mostly the cell interconnections taking the loads when going over bumps. Either fill the gap underneath or add...

Are you sure it is jumping between gears rather than chain slipping on cassette? If chain is correct length, cassette and chain in good order, enough spring tension in the derailleur then at least the gears close to the line of the chainring have to work! Even with a bad chainline, the higher...

Just another wannabe startup brand flogging bog standard rear hub motor kits.

From the pictures, the black part and the blue part are designed to have an adjustable sliding fit, and the silver threaded bits are nuts which form a clamp with the bolts that have been removed. The nuts should come out with careful tapping and proper support of the other parts, and that...

I also use the Cateye, and find it clear and stable. Bar end position looks past my arm better than I expected, but I do have to take eyes off straight ahead to use it. Wouldn't be without it.

So any generic 36V battery will work, if you can't get identical shape/mount then get creative with a mounting solution. The electrical side just needs those red and black wires connecting between new battery mount and controller.

PO4 (3-) is the chemical phosphate ion. Po in LiPo is polymer. Two different battery chemistries. Your receipt looks confused! More likely than not that the LiPO4 it states means LiFePO4, Lithium Iron (Fe) PhOsphate.

'For the avoidance of doubt' as they say, my answers were in relation to your new battery build, not an existing battery with issues. In particular, my (1) is talking about cells not yet spot welded together into a parallel cell group, not connecting a resistor between cell groups within a fully...

1. You can remove any worries there by temporarily connecting in parallel via a low ohms value, high wattage resistor. Voltages will equalise at modest current via the resistor. But for differences of a few mV, the few milliohms of cell internal resistance will keep the equalizing current...

Is it a 250W small geared hub motor, or a higher power one? If unsure, add a picture.

Biggest issue is the thickness of the motor sitting on the crank, outboard of the chainring. Could be awkward to be so asymmetric and so wide. Weight is a bit high, at 8 or 9 kg, and battery choices seem limited to one option for each motor power. They'll probably change that daftness as 6.6Ah...

More detail would be helpful, for example is it hub motor or mid drive, is this a new problem, spec of motor and battery, age of battery, and so on. Based on the info given, your battery may be the problem. When you ride in high assistance you ask for high power, which pulls the voltage too low...