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A normal side stand with a longer leg mounted at a shallower angle would do it.

I wish I had workshop space and more time! 4 years to retirement still!

Only the first wheel build is slow! It is quite satisfying, and not as hard as I expected. Just replaced both my rims. I was thinking one of those under 2kg hub motors, put in a smaller wheel, would have lower max speed and better uphill assistance. So all the help needed uphill, and more...

If you are able to include a trailer (main limitation I have found is does not go on a train easily), that solves the weight and balance issue for the bike, as you can offload as much weight as necessary. You gain lots of space, which makes touring much more relaxed. I put bulky but...

TESTING, TESTING..... -1 Oh, this is fun! Such power! I wonder if I can vote twice to cancel that out?

If you find a way to convert a standard kids bike with not much added weight that would be useful to share. So many motors are 4 or 5 kilos, and it has to be quite a small capacity battery to be less than 2. Maybe this could be a use for all those Swytch kits people have grown out of!

Kids are far better off in early life being as fit and active as possible. If they enjoy the activity, they will get used to the physicality of it, and be healthier life long as a result.

If you are not going to push it hard, then you don't need a BBS02, a BBS01 will do just fine. That reduces the maximum current required, and if you are really nervous about the battery being 'good enough', then just get a bigger one. A 17.5Ah or 20Ah with 21700 Samsung or Panasonic cells will...

Easy. Build two, always use the other one.

You still have legal redress through small claims court if they are a business. They took your money - they ARE a business!

Alternatively is there any mileage in mapping your Alfine gear selection to a motor setting?

That's an impressive machine! Do you have the ability to squeeze your hand cranks together, and/or pull them apart, or any wrist movement to rotate one relative to the other? The switches are technically simple, just need to find the movement that you can most easily make, and then find a way...

The fully charged voltage is simple maths: A nominally 52V battery has 14 cell groups in series, a fully charged cell is nominally 4.2V, so fully charged voltage is 4.2 x 14 = 58.8V. Now your 57.7V is 4.12V per cell, which is probably close enough: the difference could be down to BMS...

Just remember to include the equivalent of brake sensors, whatever you do, so that in an awkward or emergency situation you can always safely stop.

I don't know any of those parts first hand, but it looks like the Bafang display has a separate switch unit. The first question is whether these are simple switches directly connected via the cable to the display, or whether there is a communication protocol at work there. I can't answer that...

If the switch is for turning the bike on, and the battery charges with it switched off, then off is fine, and it probably doesn't matter.

Either you or Woosh need to buy one, for a side by side test!

Don't run it flat if you can avoid it, don't store it long term full, just make sure there is enough charge before each journey, and when you do charge, charge fully to let balancing work. My short commute can be done 5 times on a full battery. I normally charge every 3 days, so I am never in...

Just ride it a few hundred miles, play with settings and gears, learn what you can. It is probably behaving as it should, a powerful motor not necessarily operating at most efficient speed, so consuming lots of Wh per mile.

Could be very good combined with the torque sensor, and presumably multiple assist levels as well. Like a single speed bike with a helping hand to get started, and the higher assist levels for modest hills. I await reports with interest!