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Just to clarify: some PAS sensors will decide you are pedalling and so the motor should be ON even when you are pedalling backwards (for your coaster brake). That's not safe, and you need a 100% reliable workaround for that before you add a front hub motor to your bike. A brake cutout only on...

...but even that is not as clear cut as it sounds. My rotors are marked resin only, but as far as I can see, are solid stainless steel, not some fancy sandwich, so I don't really see the problem with using harsher pads. Unless I'm missing something, it just means the rotor will wear out...

I'm impressed with @guerney's 3.6kg for 19.2Ah. My 28Ah (13Ah + 15Ah) cheap solar batteries add up to 7kg. I agree with lose the backpack.

https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/43673/what-sort-of-oil-lube-is-shimano-internal-hub-maintenance-oil#43676 Various solutions mentioned including EP80 and ATF.

I was happy with my basic MT200s until I rode that Tern GSD the other week. Different world, and now I want to join it!

If the first cross is the one just a centimetre or so from the hub flange, then mine too is a two cross pattern. I just guide the spoke as soon as it is through the rim into the most suitable gap in the opposite side's spokes, and work it gently into place. I have in this way managed spokes that...

Maybe not in a 20 inch wheel, or with a very large diameter motor. I found in my 700c non-hub motor wheel there was no issue. Any gentle bending needed to persuade a spoke into position is pulled out when the spoke is tensioned. A full build is daunting. One spoke is not!

Don't worry, you can do this. Take your time, don't rush, do one spoke at a time to gain confidence. I was forced to have a go back in October when I broke three spokes in my rear wheel 400 miles from home. You will likely need to remove disc and cassette / freewheel, and you will need to...

Probably lower power and longer lever travel. Latter becomes an issue if pistons retract further than ideal, which is not unusual with low end calipers.

I have had anything from 1,000 to 3,000 miles from a set of pads.

Be really sure there is nothing simple wrong before you open the motor. I don't know specifics for Yamaha, but on my Shimano, if there is a problem with the sensor that detects the rear wheel spoke magnet, the bike will show an error code and not work. It has to have the wheel sensor data to...

Let us know how the bike turns out!

Just include the link. All technical details are there. Emphasise the low mileage, and state the warranty position. That is very important for a buyer, regardless of mileage. Adds a lot to the value. https://fazua.com/en/products/ride-50-trail-street/

Poor man's guide to wheelbuilding: Take them out and replace with new one at a time! Then you always have a fairly true wheel with less stress on the wheel builder. But I agree, it is not as hard as you think.

Going back to the mid drive and torque part of the discussion, for serious off road use you would not use a 28T lowest gear. Typical mtb cassettes these days are 50T or a few more, which multiplies your 28T torque figure by 1.8. Keep that in mind if your hub mods don't get you what you want.

The Tern GSD locally has Magura MT5 front and rear, 4 pot, big discs, small wheels so higher surface speed at any given road speed. I got a quick go when I changed the chain recently. Extremely impressive.

Hydraulic, and bearing in mind they easily move from bike to bike, get some good ones! 4 pot front worthwhile, rear also but less important. Larger discs help if you stay with 2 pot.

Good job you noticed! There's bound to be a capable soldering person somewhere nearby if you need one.

Impressive minimalist interpretation of rear brake.

I always include a fairly small value fuse (10A or less) in the interconnecting wiring, as well as only performing the connection at equal voltage. Belt and braces.