E-Bike Motor Problems 36v 250w

[merk]

I have a Christiania e cargo bike. I have replaced the battery and the controller. I have tried two controllers with the same result. The original controller isn't working. There is an E10 error. When the throttle is pushed there is an unpleasant sound and the wheel turns hardly at all.
The connection to the motor is 9 pin. I wondered if the hall sensor wires and phase wires were mismatched to the new controller. The E-Bike repair shop person advised that this wouldn't bethe case and the problem will be with the motor.
Advice on how to resolve those would be greatly appreciated

 

[saneagle]

I have a Christiania e cargo bike. I have replaced the battery and the controller. I have tried two controllers with the same result. The original controller isn't working. There is an E10 error. When the throttle is pushed there is an unpleasant sound and the wheel turns hardly at all.
The connection to the motor is 9 pin. I wondered if the hall sensor wires and phase wires were mismatched to the new controller. The E-Bike repair shop person advised that this wouldn't bethe case and the problem will be with the motor.
Advice on how to resolve those would be greatly appreciated

There can indeed be a mismatch between the sequences of the wires on each side of the motor connector, though it's not very common. More likely, you have a problem somewhere on the motor cable or a malfunctioning hall sensor in the motor.

First, inspect the motor cable, especially where it comes out of the axle, then make sure that the motor's 9-pin connector is ALL THE WAY to the MARKED LINE. After that, you need to test that the hall sensors are working.

We could give a lot more specific help if you showed us exactly what you have. Which controller, Which motor connetors? Which motor. Also, tell us how the problem started. Nothing goes wrong for no reason!

 

[merk]

Thanks. The wire appears undamaged and is inserted properly. The rear hub motor I believe is a promovec 250w 36v. The new controller is at KT 36 rated 11a.
The motor is connected with a 9 pin connector

 

[saneagle]

The motor is connected with a 9 pin connector

You guys make it so hard!!!! Can't you just say whether it reaches the line or not? And which end/s of the motor cable has/have the 9-pin connector? And you forgot to answer the last bit.

 

[merk]

You guys make it so hard!!!! Can't you just say whether it reaches the line or not? And which end/s of the motor cable has/have the 9-pin connector? And you forgot to answer the last bit.

It is inserted all the way to the line. The nine pin connector comes out of the drive side of the motor. This is the only wire from the motor to the controller. The bike was purchased without a battery, as is.

 

[saneagle]

It is inserted all the way to the line. The nine pin connector comes out of the drive side of the motor. This is the only wire from the motor to the controller. The bike was purchased without a battery, as is.

How is the motor cable connected to the controller?

 

[merk]

How is the motor cable connected to the controller? Why are you avoiding the question?

I thought it is obvious, that is is connected via a 9 pin connection. Is this not obvious? Am I misunderstanding something?

 

[merk]

I thought it is obvious, that is is connected via a 9 pin connection. Is this not obvious? Am I misunderstanding something?

You answered already, that although it is connected this way, there is a chance, though uncommon that the wires are mismatchwd

 

[saneagle]

You answered already, that although it is connected this way, there is a chance, though uncommon that the wires are mismatchwd

Normally, the motor cable has two connectors - one at each end. One is connected to the motor and the other to the controller.

 

[merk]

Normally, the motor cable has two connectors - one at each end. One is connected to the motor and the other to the controller.

There is a wire for the motor on the controller to receive the 9 pin connector. Between this and the motor wire, their is a 9 pin extension wire, so the wire is long enough.

 

[matthewslack]

Test the motor hall sensors before you go any further.

https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HallSensorTestingFinal.pdf

I don't think faulty hall sensors can damage your controller, but if you have any doubts, test the MOSFETs too.

https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/BlownMosfets.pdf

 

[Nealh]

It makes life easier for us willing to help out (for free) if some pictures of the controller and motor cable connections are shown, then we can then stop guessing at what is actually fitted and how , as some bikes do vary .

KT 11a 9msofet controller may be a bit too powerful for your battery as it means it can deliver 22a max if the current isn't reduced.

 

[Nealh]

So far we have no idea of the original controller used or display fitted.
With the KT one has to also buy a comnpatible KT display for it all to work correctly,
E10 error is often associated with controller communication error so if one is using a non compatible display then the bike is going nowhere.

Tbh very little info has been supplied to the forum for anyone to get a proper grasp on the issue.

 

[Ajax]

You might want to get an "ebike tester". You can use this to test the phase and hall wire going to the motor, as well as the phase and hall wires coming from the controller. If you've replaced the controller, some controllers need you to calibrate the wheel by connecting a 'test wire', which you disconnect whilst the wheel/hub is spinning in the correct direction. You can also use the 'ebike tester' to check the throttle works.

 

[Nealh]

KT have no calibration/learn wires so the process isn't needed.
The op needs to explain or show exactly the display being used as thye haven't said if they have bough a compatible KT display to work with the KT controller.

One can't simply mix and match controllers and displays and hope for the best a sprogramming/firmware will be incompatible hence the E10 error code which is for Comms error.