Noodles

There will be a limit to what current the battery can output. 35A is a big ask, so if it wasn't designed for it, you might just not achieve max power. It should function. If it was designed for a 5A 250W ebike The real risk is the battery over heating. The internal wires and conductors may not be rated for that much current. Best case it would blow an internal wire/fuse. Worse case it would blow up a cell and catch fire.

Thought I would check in on the forum. I've had it for a year now. Still going fine for me. It's been rained on a bunch. On seeing mine four other guys from work got the same model. 2 bought direct from LVBU and 2 from resellers. 2 of the guys have had issues. When the battery was left over winter it wouldn't take a charge in the Spring. The guy with the reseller is waiting for a new battery pack. The guy with the factory one received a Dongle to force charge and wake the battery pack up. It worked. I don't know if this is firmware fixable, but I have had 2 updates in the last year. I am getting through brake pads faster than I used to. It still doesn't support the cadence sensor they offer. It's actually difficult to go a constant speed unless its the top speed. Trying to cycle with my wife on her ebike, I'm always faster or slower than her. Overall I would still reccommend. With regards to safety and control concerns people have had. From my understanding/experience, It uses wheel speed, gyroscope angle and GPS. The GPS is only being used to calibrate your actual speed and check the limits in your locale. (It's not possible to make it go faster by telling the app you have smaller wheels or weigh heavier than you do.) And even if you set it to unlimited, mine caps out between 16-17mph, the UK limit) The Gyroscope is only used to see if you are going up or down a slope, or if you have fallen over. The primary sensor is the wheel speed. In terms of how it works, it seems like it has 3 states, Accelerate, Decelerate and Off. Above 5mph if it sees your speed is increasing it gives you a boost and Accelerates. If it's load(Current) increases a little but you aren't going uphill, or if you hit the limiter it switches to Decelerate. This gives you just less than what you need to maintain speed and you very slowly slow down. If load suddenly increases a lot, or you fall over it turns Off the power as it senses you braking. People seem to think that a PAS sensor. or brake microswitches ensure safety, They are not connected via hardware to the motor. It's all done in software in the controller. If A microswitch fails, you are screwed, if the PAS sensor fails you won't go anywhere. On the LVBU, if the Gyroscope fails, it won't go anywhere, if the wheel sensor fails it won't go anywhere. If you are worried the software might hang and straight up drive away on you, that's no different from any other e-bike. And ultimately, a pair of standard bike brakes really should be strong enough to stop a low torque 250W motor.

The link you posted does actually quote that LVBU is the manufacturer. They definitely don't include Induction Braking though.

Howdy All. I just fitted an LVBU KF system to my road bike, really couldn't find any reviews online so it was a bit of a punt. It was on Sale for £360 shipped to UK. I opted for a rear wheel version. To Summarise first in case people are already put off. I'm happy with the Kit, but I would have gone with their older BY series (The Easy-Fit model) as there are some dissapointments. It advertises as supporting 18W USB-C Fast charging. This is a stretch. It comes with a dumb 42V 2A charger (84W) which has a USB-C connector and a label warning you not to use it to charge laptops and phones. So Physically it is USB-C, Electrically it's an accident waiting to happen. You cannot use a USB-C Laptop charger or Fast Phone charger to charge it. What it can do is charge a Phone over USB-C. (The BY had a coaxial power connector and a USB-A socket for phone charging.) The only way to turn it on and off is with a small pin. (They BY model had an off switch.) I believe the intention is that you don't turn it off, and the standby drain is minimal, but It then sits with lights on all the time. (It does have a nice "Lock" function in the App which requires it to be on. Essentially if someone tries to cycle away with it, it resists and sounds an alarm, a big Off button would negate this, but the lights should turn off after a while.) They advertise it as being compatible with an ANT+ Pedometer. They even sell a rebranded Magene one, but the KF series doesn't support this yet. (Th BY model supports it) Lastly, they advertise an adjustable speed limiter. This works, but not above 16mph, even if you can set it from 5mph to 30mph to unlimited. The battery reads GPS speeds and limits you to the local legal limit. The Good bits. It works. It works well.(It does 0 assist until 5mph above which it's like someone is hitting a cruise control reset button every second. If you accelerate it holds the new speed. If you squeeze the brakes and slow down, it holds the new speed unless below 5mph.) It was simple to install, One cable no sensors. It's not obvious it's an ebike. The wheel/rim is very good quality It was good value Seller communicated well They gave a thumb throttle if you want it. The "Could be better" Being able to shorten/remove the unused cables. It's made for a front wheel, if you have a rear hub, the cable is 2x too long. I don't use the throttle, so have another cable dangling about. Change the flashlight button into the power button. I had to file out the dropouts as the axel was wider than mine. The Bad Had to fashion a bracket from sheet metal as the Battery is a bit flexible and hitting a big bump caused the motor to cut out, it needs to be able to recover from this state without stopping and resetting the app. The charger, it's a nightmare born of wishful marketing and an electronics engineer who didn't understand or couldn't execute the brief. the App, needs some polish.