Recent content by Bobbo1260

here’s the link

I found this on YouTube and changed the PAS settings on my yose power kit from 5 to 9 and the power settings for each of the 9 settings. The power delivery is now a lot smoother. For example: PAS 1 = 10%, 2 = 22%, 3 = 34% up to 9 = 99%.

The only problem we have is finding a uk supplier for a 15mm adaptor for the rear axle to fit the sprocket to. Seems you have to get them from the US at a cost of around £60 with shipping and 21 days delivery.

I made them myself from 1” steel conduit bent to shape using a pipe bender and welded at the bottom where I fitted a couple of 75mm castors. they sit at the same width as the rear wheels and 2” above ground level. I have to plan routes in case they ground out at places such as uneven ground. I...

With you guys seeming knowledgable about hubs and discs could you answer me this . My neighbour wants me to fabricate a bracket to receive his front wheel hub having demounted it from its 26” wheel. His idea is to have the hub drive his trike rear axle and in turn its 26” wheel using an axle...

I wonder how many of these fires are down to sub standard replacement parts or the I’ll informed using higher capacity chargers to get a speedier charge time and cooking the battery in the process. i always remove the battery to charge it in the garden in a vented steel box lined with 6mm...

I use the walk button on my trike and don’t find it a big deal having to hold it down when pushing the trike as unlike a bike you have to stand away from it to avoid the rear wheel and have the left on the handlebar and button and right hand on the seat. if the button was a latching switch and...

Well that must have been the cause of my problem as now the disc is running true and about 2mm from the sensor the motor kick in is almost instantaneous.

Might give the re-lacing part a go myself as I have the rim and just need the spokes and get it trued up at a shop As suggested, thanks. My late grandad was a dab hand at truing me and my cousins buckled wheels when we were kids up and down kerbs all the time..

My electronics neighbour reconned my problem was with the distance too large between the two, the disc has to rotate faster to get the controller to kick the motor in.

I’m basically removing the complete rear axle assembly and bolting a length of box section to it in place of the existing frame. The front will then be angled upwards by mig welding and then welded to the front head set of a doner bike. Doner bike crank will be bolted on as will a 2nd hand go...

All I know is that now I’ve closed the gap between the sensor and crank shaft disc that contains the magnets the motor kicks in within about 1/2 Pedal turn..

Noting this post is a few years old if this helps anyone with a similar problem my Yosepower PAS wasn't kicking in unless I pedalled fast In 1st gear. As I has an all in one crank set it has a separate magnet disk and sensor. It turned out that the sensor at 6mm away from the magnetic disk was...

I have aquired a decentish bike for £20 thats in need of a paint job that i was told had 26" wheels but when i got it home i realised it had 27.5" wheels. (Yes i should have checked the tyre sizes before handing over the cash... der). How much could i expect to pay to have the electric hub...

I did consider fitting smaller wheels as that would work with the pedals but the centre of gravity would only by lowered by 3 inches. When you look at the more stable versions of trikes such as tomcat, recumbents and trikes used by the disabled in marathons they all have a lower centre of...