I've just finishing wiring in some lights on my Giant E+ Dirt 2016.
There are quite a few threads around the internet that show how to install lights - but these are generally for the Haibike variants.
The Giant install is slightly different - some fiddly trim - and different connectors - so I thought that I would share my experience
The install is also cheaper as they use simple connectors that are available pre wired - ebay / RC model shops at lower cost to the Haibike JST Splitter cable. - 2GBP for three pairs of connectors.
I wish I had known this before I began - I sourced a Haibike style cable from Germany (cheaper than buying in the UK — and from a company that would actually sell me one - unlike some UK ‘businesses’ - Then I opened the Giant up and realised I needed a different connector ! ! !
You can do a Haibike setup for about 2GBP per unit also - if you have a good quality crimper - but you need to purchase the connectors in 10 unit packs - so the price jumps up unless you are making a few connectors.
Keeping the Haibike cable for now - as my wife has been looking at one of the Women's Haibike variants - so might come in useful later if she wants built in lights.
Parts & Tools
SM 2.5 2 PIN JST Female Connector - get one pre wired
Usual selection of hex keys
X Head Screwdriver
Soldering Iron
Solder
Heat Shrink Tube - small and medium
Crank Nut wrench (not strictly needed - but might come in useful)
2m twin cable - I used some from an old broken transformer.
Lights
Getting Started - Bike in Upright Position
1 Unfasten the lower battery holder by removing the four bolts
You need to be able to move battery holder up to release the side trims in the next steps
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2. Remove left hand side trim by removing the three bolts
Wiggle the battery connector up a little to release the end of the trim.
I took the pedal off to completely remove the trim from the bike - not essential - but gives more working space and stops potential damage.
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This is the lug fastener at the end of the trim - this is why you need to remove the bolts from the battery housing - so that it can lift and allow the trim removal.
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3. Remove right hand side trim by removing the three bolts and One silver screw.
The screw is hidden behind the chain set and is difficult to remove.
I took out one of the crank nuts and used an old slightly bent screwdriver to reach through the nut hole as it brings the driver more inline with the nut.
If you have the time or inclination to remove the chain set the screw is easy - I have my trusty bent screwdriver to help me on these occasions.
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Bike in Upside Down Position
Don’t forget to remove / tilt the display out of the way
4. Remove the skid plate
One bolt under the front stem - and a couple of screws.
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Another opportunity for the bent screwdriver to remove the screws - but much easier than the Right Hand Trim.
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The motor is now exposed
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5. Remove TWO Motor Bolts - Loosen ONE
Bolts highlighted in Orange - remove - take care to catch the washers and nuts
Bolt Highlighted in Green - Loosen off but leave in place (with the nut attached) so that it can act as a hinge when you lift the motor.
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When you lift the motor you can - on some bikes tighten the pivot / hinge bolt to hold the motor in the raised position. No luck on my bike so I put a piece of old seat post cutoff between the motor and frame to give me some working space.
6. The Wiring
Usual set of cables to connect the machinations of an e-bike.
One of the good things about the Giant - is the amount of tube space to hide wires and connectors in - It makes tucking the cables away quick and easy - can't comment on other makes - they might be as spacious.
Highlighted is the Light Cable
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Here's a pic of the connector you need
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Other views of the wiring set up for people who like these things.
Wires to the Motor
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Wire to the Battery Housing
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7. Cable Routing
Front cable - Down through the tube under the battery - same route as the controller cable - lots of space - very easy
Rear Cable - There is a slot behind the motor where the speed monitor cable routes - lots of space - very easy
8. Quick test
Fastened one of the battery holder bolts back in place and fitted the battery.
Twisted the cable for the rear light in place to test that it worked and the polarity was correct
Marked the ‘Red’ with a tab of tape.
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Repeated for the front lights
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9. Connecting Up
From here - it’s a simple soldering job
Soldered front and rear reds together
Soldered front and rear blacks together
Soldered Connector wires (from the prewired connector) to the relevant black/ red
Covered joins with heat shrink
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Covered the whole connection with medium sized heat shrink.
Tested - all okay
10. Re-assembly
Tuck the cables away - as mentioned there is plenty of space in the tube
If you have tested the lighting (who would not ?!?!) - remove the battery and the holding bolt as you will need to be able to move the base battery holder to re-assemble.
Reverse procedure for the motor / trim etc
I took the opportunity to give everything a good clean also - I’ve dragged the bike through lots of mud, dust and a stream in the last week - It’s amazing where the dirt goes ! !
Noticed some rust on the motor bolts - which I'll keep an eye on - and add a spot of grease here to my maintenance regime.
Hope that this helps someone
Cheers
Mike
There are quite a few threads around the internet that show how to install lights - but these are generally for the Haibike variants.
The Giant install is slightly different - some fiddly trim - and different connectors - so I thought that I would share my experience
The install is also cheaper as they use simple connectors that are available pre wired - ebay / RC model shops at lower cost to the Haibike JST Splitter cable. - 2GBP for three pairs of connectors.
I wish I had known this before I began - I sourced a Haibike style cable from Germany (cheaper than buying in the UK — and from a company that would actually sell me one - unlike some UK ‘businesses’ - Then I opened the Giant up and realised I needed a different connector ! ! !
You can do a Haibike setup for about 2GBP per unit also - if you have a good quality crimper - but you need to purchase the connectors in 10 unit packs - so the price jumps up unless you are making a few connectors.
Keeping the Haibike cable for now - as my wife has been looking at one of the Women's Haibike variants - so might come in useful later if she wants built in lights.
Parts & Tools
SM 2.5 2 PIN JST Female Connector - get one pre wired
Usual selection of hex keys
X Head Screwdriver
Soldering Iron
Solder
Heat Shrink Tube - small and medium
Crank Nut wrench (not strictly needed - but might come in useful)
2m twin cable - I used some from an old broken transformer.
Lights
Getting Started - Bike in Upright Position
1 Unfasten the lower battery holder by removing the four bolts
You need to be able to move battery holder up to release the side trims in the next steps
2. Remove left hand side trim by removing the three bolts
Wiggle the battery connector up a little to release the end of the trim.
I took the pedal off to completely remove the trim from the bike - not essential - but gives more working space and stops potential damage.
This is the lug fastener at the end of the trim - this is why you need to remove the bolts from the battery housing - so that it can lift and allow the trim removal.
3. Remove right hand side trim by removing the three bolts and One silver screw.
The screw is hidden behind the chain set and is difficult to remove.
I took out one of the crank nuts and used an old slightly bent screwdriver to reach through the nut hole as it brings the driver more inline with the nut.
If you have the time or inclination to remove the chain set the screw is easy - I have my trusty bent screwdriver to help me on these occasions.
Bike in Upside Down Position
Don’t forget to remove / tilt the display out of the way
4. Remove the skid plate
One bolt under the front stem - and a couple of screws.
Another opportunity for the bent screwdriver to remove the screws - but much easier than the Right Hand Trim.
The motor is now exposed
5. Remove TWO Motor Bolts - Loosen ONE
Bolts highlighted in Orange - remove - take care to catch the washers and nuts
Bolt Highlighted in Green - Loosen off but leave in place (with the nut attached) so that it can act as a hinge when you lift the motor.
When you lift the motor you can - on some bikes tighten the pivot / hinge bolt to hold the motor in the raised position. No luck on my bike so I put a piece of old seat post cutoff between the motor and frame to give me some working space.
6. The Wiring
Usual set of cables to connect the machinations of an e-bike.
One of the good things about the Giant - is the amount of tube space to hide wires and connectors in - It makes tucking the cables away quick and easy - can't comment on other makes - they might be as spacious.
Highlighted is the Light Cable
Here's a pic of the connector you need
Other views of the wiring set up for people who like these things.
Wires to the Motor
Wire to the Battery Housing
7. Cable Routing
Front cable - Down through the tube under the battery - same route as the controller cable - lots of space - very easy
Rear Cable - There is a slot behind the motor where the speed monitor cable routes - lots of space - very easy
8. Quick test
Fastened one of the battery holder bolts back in place and fitted the battery.
Twisted the cable for the rear light in place to test that it worked and the polarity was correct
Marked the ‘Red’ with a tab of tape.
Repeated for the front lights
9. Connecting Up
From here - it’s a simple soldering job
Soldered front and rear reds together
Soldered front and rear blacks together
Soldered Connector wires (from the prewired connector) to the relevant black/ red
Covered joins with heat shrink
Covered the whole connection with medium sized heat shrink.
Tested - all okay
10. Re-assembly
Tuck the cables away - as mentioned there is plenty of space in the tube
If you have tested the lighting (who would not ?!?!) - remove the battery and the holding bolt as you will need to be able to move the base battery holder to re-assemble.
Reverse procedure for the motor / trim etc
I took the opportunity to give everything a good clean also - I’ve dragged the bike through lots of mud, dust and a stream in the last week - It’s amazing where the dirt goes ! !
Noticed some rust on the motor bolts - which I'll keep an eye on - and add a spot of grease here to my maintenance regime.
Hope that this helps someone
Cheers
Mike
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