Please check my config for a road bike

[Khumarahn]

I am going to add assisting motor on a road bike:



My daily commute is about 9.5 miles one way, with some hills which aren't steep but are quite long. My average speed is currently around 10-13mph. I want to make the commute easier and maybe faster. Or just have fun.

My understanding so far is:
* it makes sense to shop on bmsbattery.com
* Q100H is an adequate motor
* S06P is a controller that would work, and it can be integrated into bottle battery stand
* I will have to go with a hidden wire brake sensors instead of brake levers with cut-off switches, and a padel assistant sensor

I have nothing so far, except some instruments and a bike. My plan is to order:
* motor: http://www.bmsbattery.com/front-driving/630-250w350w-q-85100sx-motor-e-bike-kit.html
* padel assistant sensor: http://www.bmsbattery.com/ebike-parts/504-pas-pulse-padel-assistant-sensor.html
* brake sensors: http://www.bmsbattery.com/accessory/459-hwbs-hidden-wire-brake-sensor.html
* controller (integrated to battery stand): http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/578-36v-s06p-integrated-controller-for-new-bottle-case.html
* battery: http://www.bmsbattery.com/36v/571-bottle-ebike-battery.html


Plus, I will have to find a 36 hole rim and spokes or proper length...

Does this make sense?

 

[Martin@e-bikeshop]

Hi,

Welcome to the forum! It sounds like you have done a little research already.
Our resident hub conversion expert d8veh will know exactly where you stand with this.

All the best on your build!
Martin

 

[Khumarahn]

I had a chat with bmsbattery support, they are not really helpful. They say that my parts are compatible, but I got an impression that they know nothing about what they are selling...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The S06P does not work with the Q100H, You need the KU65 or S06S..

Why not get this one and save a lot of messing about with wheel-building:
http://www.bmsbattery.com/ebike-kits/632-250w350w-q-85100sx-motor-e-bike-kit.html

You should add their spoke key to your order if you get the wheel ready-built.

 

[Khumarahn]

Are you sure S06P does not work with Q100H? In the description of Q100H it is mentioned as a suitable controller. I like that S06P is integrated into battery stand, I won't have to have a separate bag for controller.

 

[Khumarahn]

I am not sure about rim dimensions... My rim is 700c, but there must be a width parameter... And are their rims good?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Are you sure S06P does not work with Q100H? In the description of Q100H it is mentioned as a suitable controller.

Who do you want to believe?

Their rims are OK. They're 18mm between the flanges.

 

[Khumarahn]

They promised to check if S06P works with Q100H when they are back to the office, which is Friday... I asked about rims too, they said,

Inside width of the rim: 19.5mm
outside width of the rim: 24mm

 

[Deleted member 4366]

None of the Q series motors are happy running sensorless, and the S06P is a sensorless controller.

 

[jackhandy]

Front forks look to be sraight-blade carbon on that giant ocr:
Will they be ok with the front motor?

 

[Khumarahn]

A very good question... I have no idea!

And if I go for a rear motor, what are chances that it will be compatible with my cassette (I have some campagnolo)?

 

[Clockwise]

A very good question... I have no idea!

And if I go for a rear motor, what are chances that it will be compatible with my cassette (I have some campagnolo)?

You have a 10 speed cassette, so long as the replacement can take a 10 speed chain then it should be ok. If it can't then you might need to change the chainrings for thicker ones(to suit a thicker 5-7 speed chain).

As for the forks then I would aim towards a "cyclocross" replacement if you feel the need. Maybe go with a disc brake and disc forks and disc ehub to make it more an upgrade than a sidegrade.

I would also give strava a try for a few days. When I'm on my single speed road bike I often cruise at 20mph so the motor would hardly ever be on beyond pulling away or taking the odd hill. Road bikes can be deceptively fast.

 

[Khumarahn]

I googled out that front fork may easily brake because it is not designed for motor loads... I am investigating a possibility of acquiring Q100H rear motor:
http://www.bmsbattery.com/ebike-kits/633-250w350w-q-85100sx-motor-e-bike-kit.html

My rear hub width is 135mm, so rear Q100H should fit. I have some 9 speed campagnolo cassette:

Should I expect any troubles fitting this cassette on the motor?

Plus, I am not sure that I have enough space for PAS:

Will PAS fit?

Many thanks to d8veh and others for a very significant help so far.

P.S.: I learned that some motors have sensors, and it is good if controller knows about sensors, so S60P is not the best choice for Q100H (even though it should work). Which is sad, because S60P integrates into bottle stand... Now I am looking for another controller and a way to conceal it.

P.P.S.: What is strava?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You need the Q100C (cassette version), ut that brings lots of new problems. You have to choose between 201 rpm (too slow) and 328 rpm (too fast), which means that you have to have to mess about with battery voltages to get the right speed. Also, it's a it wider than 135mm, which is no problem for a strong MTB frame, but I'm not sure about how it would effect yours.

After considering everything, I think the best option would be to get an older classic steel-framed road bike for about £100, and go back to plan A - front wheel conversion. It'll be better suited to conversion, and I doubt that you'd notice much difference between the two bikes after conversion.

 

[Khumarahn]

How much wider is Q100C? Its specs say 135mm...
I cannot buy another bike - there's absolutely no place to keep it. Unless I sell this one...

What about Bafang CST?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

he drawing says 139mm, but you might have to add a couple of washers to get the disc spacing correct, so maybe 142mm worst case.

I just looked at your photos. It looks like you've got no space for a pedal sensor as well, which means modifying something.

 

[jackhandy]

Welcome to the underworld of ebike conversion, Khumerahn

It's rarely as simple as it's made out, but the results are generally worth it & you've got the right bloke steering you - D8veh must have done more than the rest of us put together.

Next time someone tells us it's not worth paying some muckypaws £100.00 to do it for them...

 

[Khumarahn]

I am puzzled now. Is there any way to fit a PAS? I guess I should look into replacement of bottom bracket for something with longer shaft.

Then if PAS is sorted out, then as it was suggested above I can always buy a stronger front fork, and put there Q100H. Bottom bracket plus fork is going to cost some money... But the idea of having a fast road bike with light motor is very attractive.

jackhandy, I would never pay £100 for bicycle repairs, because it is interesting to do myself

 

[Clockwise]

Strava is a GPS logging app that gives you statistics about your rides. In your current case you can use that data to show slow spots the motor will help and faster spots which it will turn off. When I get home later I will try and make up a picture with my ride home to show it.

As for the chains, sprockets/cassetes and chainrings they have different thicknesses of which yours is the 8-10 speed road bike type(the thinnest). You also have a cassette freehub instead of a screw on freewheel(?).

The sheldon brown page on it has tons and tons of info.

sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html

 

[Clockwise]

Hopefully this helps explain, I marked up one of my past rides on my own road bike with red sections that would be constantly over 15mph and then green when it's up and down and that blue dot and circled figure is in the middle of one of the larger "dead" spots.