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I would vote for the option to just wire the lights separately - through a fuse, then a switch. That way you can run the display without the backlight, and run the lights as you require. It also means that you aren't limited by the output from the controller.

You can spend a little more and get something that definitely does meet the standard - my experience is that the claims on some of these lights are not quite true (e.g. lux). I've got 2 of the Spanninga Axendo 80 lights on my velomobile and like them a lot. Much better beam pattern than all the...

I would recommend you get an additional bar (often used for mounting lights, cameras, or cycle computers) and then attach the throttle to that. Cleans up your main bars, but still keeps the controls in reach. Something like this: eBay or lots more choices at SJS Phil

I've never owned a Bosch system, but believe that they are pretty good at stopping you from bypassing the required speed limit, so would be surprised if your proposal actually worked. In addition, in the early days of the Alfine there were lots of reports of the 11 being less durable - I read...

Some of these cheap lights don't have a good vertical cut-off - so you run the risk of annoying any oncoming traffic. Another alternative that meets the stringent German requirements and will run off your ebike battery is by Spanninga (and is much cheaper than the premium offerings by others)...

As the others have said, a crank drive will be better. Have a look at the various Bafang BBS offerings, or the TSDZ2 (or whatever it is called). Available from lots of sellers including Woosh: http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?cdkit#tsdz2 Another alternative which might be a bit left field - if you...

I'm sure you'll get a fuller answer from somebody more knowledgeable, but here's my tuppence worth... The EU spec of 250W is a bit confusing - it is a 'nominal' value. In practice you are perfectly correct - the combination of battery and controller often mean that a '250W' system might...

Interesting bike - nice find! As a starter, I would get rid of the knobbly tyres unless you are off-roading. In terms of motors - I agree that having the rear wheel motorised would make sense here - and a smaller wheel will have the advantage of more torque from the same motor when compared...

Thanks for the update - sounds like it has been a success! I've just finished putting my GSM build back in the velomobile - now running at 48V, and experienced a similar joy - in a quick test ride I was able to turn the cranks at ~115 rpm without any feeling that the motor was limiting the...

Try Jimmy at Insat

I’ve given up on this idea - there is not enough room, so I’ll just live with the wider Q-factor, and enjoy the freewheel!

Hi Vern, Firstly - you are lucky to find a Rohloff equipped frame in your man cave - should be a lovely thing to use. Does the TSDZ2 allow use of a chainring spider? If so, you should be able to either get chainrings that are dished and therefore move them out that way, or get an adapter (big...

Dear all, I've not been on here for a while - as I went through a foolish phase of trying to ride my heavy aluminium recumbent (velomobile) without e-assist. I've seen the error of my ways, so may lurk a little more frequently again... One of the things I am wondering about is using a crank...

Interesting find - I hadn't realised that GNG were working on smaller, lighter motors as well as the powerful but rather industrial units they used to make. I'll stick with the GSM as I have it for now, but will keep an eye out in the future... That GNG unit could have the potential for a...

Thanks AK - useful info. I had the motor in there last year, but didn't like the slight resistance of the crank + increased resistance (I'm guessing back EMF) when trying to increase cadence. I then stripped it all out and rode without, which at least told me more about the natural cadence I...

Hi AK. Would you care to share which controller, and where from? I'm about to put my GSM back on my velomobile, but want to run at 48V as I was also experiencing issues with the limited crank speed. (Short cranks on a recumbent mean that 90-115 rpm is not uncommon, even for an unfit bloke like...

I would also suspect the controller, or the actual PAS disk which I think is internal on a BBS. I think you could either buy a new controller (internal), or do the mod to allow an external controller - and then you can use an external PAS as well. Not as neat, but might be easier to troubleshoot.

Another alternative if you want stability is a tadpole style recumbent trike. ICE in the UK make good ones http://www.icetrikes.co, and there are many other manufacturers out there who also make good options. The advantage of a tadpole trike is stability during steering - 2 wheels at the front...

Thanks all for the tips. Cheers

Dear all, I have a 36V 20Ah battery which is still working (bought from BMSb a few years ago). I got 2 chargers with it, which both deliver approximately 2.5A at 36V (or 42V as it appears to be). They work well, but are very noisy - the small onboard fan spins up an creates quite a noise. The...