Recent content by PointyUK

I still haven't got round to finishing this but I have made some small progress. First off, as I am a bit cramped for space, I de-soldered all of the connections/wires I am not going to be using. Also as I am not going to be using the Torque sensor I wanted to remove it and sell it. At they are...

Signal wire is held high, so I will try between signal and ground.

Having decided to replace the controller, display and torque sensor, I finally have all the parts... BMS S06S Controller. KT LCD4 KT-V12L I hooked it all up, using the bench supply and it appears to be working, I just have one thing to sort out. The Giant speed sensor is just a reed...

I am sure it would, but I have to get this bike up and running as cheaply as I can for the missus. At some point in the future I want to do a conversion on my Land Rover MTB and of course as it is for me, there will be no expense spared. ;)

So I came up with a novel way to test the battery... I then when for a 5 mile ride, including some steep hills at full power. The display was still showing full when I got back and the voltage was still 27v+. Due to the lack of Giant parts in the UK and the cost of a controller (189 euros +...

So after making the following test cable... It didn't work, although it did appear the motor was trying to go backwards and drawing way to much power. After swapping the yellow and green wires round the motor worked as expected. :) Of course although the colors are the same in the extension...

I would like to try and test the motor today and just want to make sure that I don't do anything stupid. :rolleyes: My other eBike is an Apollo Phaze 24v. It has a Shengyi DWG07C-FA motor, I haven't opened the motor yet as I need to get or make a special tool, but I looked at this thread and...

I can answer my own question about the torque sensor voltage as I can trace it back to the 5v line. Unfortunately I think the controller is fried as there is 26v on the 5v line.o_O Tomorrow I will try and test the torque sensor.

Anything with a soft on/off button must be powered all the time. If the MCU is in standby it will only draw a couple of ua anyway.

This is what I have come up with for the display schematic... If you spot anything you think is wrong, let me know.

No, not yet but I did finally get the whole PCB out of the case... There are some possible signs of water ingress. I am still puzzled about the display though. Why does the display go though it's start up routine when power is applied? Surely it should wait until it is turned on. Why...

Yes that was the first thing I checked, there is no connection between battery + and the orange/ display vcc. The transistor could be controlled by the MCU on the controller, maybe it does startup checks before switching it? It's hard to trace because I can't see the back. I guess I need to...

I have managed to clean up the worst of the silicone from the component side of the controller... The supply to the display is not a simple branch it looks like it is controlled by Q10, but where it comes from I have not worked out yet. (there appears to be a large unsoldered pin, just above...

The battery charged up to 28.7v but I haven't checked to see what the charger is outputting. As I don't even know if the motor is good yet, I will keep playing with what I have for now.

Obviously the goal here is to see if it is cost effective to repair this bike. As the battery seems ok, I guess the absolute worst case is a new motor, controller and display. :oops: